Skip to content
×
Try PRO Free Today!
BiggerPockets Pro offers you a comprehensive suite of tools and resources
Market and Deal Finder Tools
Deal Analysis Calculators
Property Management Software
Exclusive discounts to Home Depot, RentRedi, and more
$0
7 days free
$828/yr or $69/mo when billed monthly.
$390/yr or $32.5/mo when billed annually.
7 days free. Cancel anytime.
Already a Pro Member? Sign in here

Join Over 3 Million Real Estate Investors

Create a free BiggerPockets account to comment, participate, and connect with over 3 million real estate investors.
Use your real name
By signing up, you indicate that you agree to the BiggerPockets Terms & Conditions.
The community here is like my own little personal real estate army that I can depend upon to help me through ANY problems I come across.
Rehabbing & House Flipping
All Forum Categories
Followed Discussions
Followed Categories
Followed People
Followed Locations
Market News & Data
General Info
Real Estate Strategies
Landlording & Rental Properties
Real Estate Professionals
Financial, Tax, & Legal
Real Estate Classifieds
Reviews & Feedback

Updated almost 9 years ago on . Most recent reply

User Stats

36
Posts
1
Votes
Alex Ballas
  • Real Estate Professional
  • Philadelphia, PA
1
Votes |
36
Posts

Plaster on Brick - Remove plaster or keep and frame with drywall

Alex Ballas
  • Real Estate Professional
  • Philadelphia, PA
Posted

Should I remove the plaster that is attached to the inside of an exterior brick wall, or keep it and just build a 2x4 frame and insulate, drywall, move outlets.  This is a 4unit low income property that I am upgrading to get better tenants, the plaster is applied directly to the brick and is very cold in winter

Most Popular Reply

User Stats

7,658
Posts
4,300
Votes
Roy N.
Pro Member
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Fredericton, New Brunswick
4,300
Votes |
7,658
Posts
Roy N.
Pro Member
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Fredericton, New Brunswick
ModeratorReplied

If you have an external masonry wall, which is exposed to the conditioned space of the unit, then you have very negligible insulation and a massive thermal conduit between conditioned and unconditioned spaces.

You would be doing far better by your future tenants to insulate this wall than worry about loosing 2-3" of living space or the aesthetics of a brick wall.

Where this is a masonry wall - first confirm if it is a single wythe or 2 (or possible 3) wythes of brick (with a air gap/drainage plane between the outer wythe and the inner).   If you have multiple wythe of brick, you should be able to either affix 2- 4" (in layers of 1", 1.5"  or 2") of foil faced polyisocyanurate rigid insulation (tape all seams and stagger the seams of each layer), or spray the inner surface with 2 - 4" of closed cell spray foam insulation.  You can then strap furring strips over the insulation (attached through the insulation into the masonry) and hang drywall or resilient channel and then drywall from the furring.

Polyisocyanurate foil faced rigid foam runs ~R6/inch, while closed cell spray foam runs R6 to R6.4 and provides a better air barrier.

Alternatively, you could stand-up a 2x3 or 2x4 studwall in-front of the masonry wall (leave a 1/2" gap between the masonry wall and the studs and spray the stud cavities (and space behind the studs) with closed cell spray foam.   Though it's really unnecessary to build a stud wall.

If your masonry wall is only a single wythe of brick, then applying closed cell spray foam to the back of the wall could prevent it from drying properly, eventually leading to spalling of the outer brick surface as it absorbs water (there are ways to mitigate this, but you will want to bring in someone with experience).

  • Roy N.
  • Loading replies...