Bathroom Tile and Shower Tile

[Anthony Angotti]

Hey BP Community, Getting a main stack replacement (sigh) so my bathroom is going to be torn up. I was wondering what you all do for B-Class rentals regarding flooring and shower walls. Both are likely going to be torn up for the repair so I will need to replace them. I'm looking for moderately priced repairs to keep flooring and the floor and tile fix under $1500 if possible. Any suggestions on brands/ideas are welcome even if it would be Ive budget. Bathroom is not large, 5' x 8'. Shower space is approximately 30" x 60" with a tub on the bottom. Thanks! Tony

[Keith Linne]

@Anthony Angotti 

It really depends on how bad the cracking is. Typically, you have a few options (most require knowing the color):

(1) If you know the grout color, you can purchase more grout and mix up some extra to "fill in" the cracks. Unfortunately, being that grout is a cement-like product, a cured layer and new layer will not usually adhere properly, causing the new grout to flake off over time. You then end up back where you started.

(2) Use a grout saw (a very coarse handheld tool) or razor blade to remove the grout in the trouble areas and then re-grout those spots. Having a full joint space allows the grout to properly adhere to the tile, etc. This can be a viable option if the cracking is concentrated to a specific area (removal of grout can be quite tedious), and you know the color (for an exact match). You don't have to know the color, but that can lead to a patchwork look.

(3) Use a tile caulking (home depot sells Polyblend grout that has matching caulking), that matches your grout color. The caulking will expand/contract with changes in temp and humidity, and as building materials shift over time.

(4) If you don't know the grout color, and it isn't a straightforward bright white, etc, tear-out and re-tile will give you the best overall finished product (and will likely allow you to determine the issues causing the cracking).

As a general rule of thumb, it's best to purchase grout and tile caulking for all tile jobs (when starting from scratch). Use grout wherever you have standard joints (between tiles). Use the matching caulking on inside corners and joints between materials (tub to tile, tile to ceiling, tile to window, etc). Make sure the caulking is an approved tile product and can be exposed to water.

Grout comes in sanded and non-sanded varieties. Sanded is used in larger joints (1/8" or larger), non-sanded is used in smaller joints (1/8" or less - think subway tile). At exactly 1/8" you can technically use either. I like to use TEC Power Grout, which is an epoxy-based grout. It is a bit more difficult to work with, but it is also more durable once fully cured, and it is less porous (typically eliminating the need to seal the grout).

I live in MN, and we have huge humidity and temperature swings throughout the year. Some cracking is always expected; however, the above steps will help minimize the issues in the long run. Hope that helps!