Earthquake retrofit - sanity check

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Earthquake retrofit - sanity check

Tim V.
San Francisco, CA · Member since 2015 · 21 posts · 8 votes

Hey Everyone,

I currently live in a SFH with an in-law unit that I use for rental income. The house is an old victorian, built ~1900 and does not currently have any sill bolts, cripple wall bracing, etc. I was recently selected for the SF Earthquake Brace and Bolt program which gives a grant of $3k to bolt and brace the perimeter of the foundation. I just learned however, that because I have cripple walls taller than 4 ft. my house requires an "engineered solution that meets Chapter A3" to qualify for the grant money. I had an engineer over last week who told me that in order for my retrofit to be code compliant (Chapter A3) we will have to add an additional shear wall under the house, which will be big $$$.

I'm currently working through my options, and was hoping to get some insight from the forum on what my best path forward is.

1) Do nothing and leave the house as is. Based on what I know, I think this is a bad idea.

2) Skip the grant money and just bolt and brace the existing exterior walls. From what I've gathered, hiring a handyman to do this will cost ~ $4k. I've had a few contractors give ball park quotes around $10k

3) Proceed with the code compliant retrofit. $4k for the engineered plans, $700 for the permit, and (according to the engineer) $20-$25k for the work itself. I do get $3k in grant money from the EBB program if I go with this option.

Is it worth an additional $15k to add the shear wall? We plan to live in this house another 3-7 years but will most likely keep it forever as a rental. I am leaning towards option 3 but I want to make sure I'm not crazy before moving forward with this large of an expenditure.

What do other SF investors do with their non-retrofitted structures?

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Amit M.
Rental Property Investor · San Francisco, CA · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y

the cost to #3 is high because of engineering cost, permit process and licensed contractor construction costs. I’d think you could have the cripple walls braced for a lot less money. I’d imagine you could do the bolt, bracing and cripple walls (basically plywood bolted with lots of screws to the interior walls) for under $10k. So you’re basically doing the right work but saving $$$. Not sure having this permitted ads much value, as future buyers can see (or keep good pics) of the work itself. 

my 2c

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  • Amit M.
    Rental Property Investor · San Francisco, CA · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    8y

    the cost to #3 is high because of engineering cost, permit process and licensed contractor construction costs. I’d think you could have the cripple walls braced for a lot less money. I’d imagine you could do the bolt, bracing and cripple walls (basically plywood bolted with lots of screws to the interior walls) for under $10k. So you’re basically doing the right work but saving $$$. Not sure having this permitted ads much value, as future buyers can see (or keep good pics) of the work itself. 

    my 2c

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  • Tim V.
    OP
    San Francisco, CA · Member since 2015 · 21 posts · 8 votes
    8y

    Thanks for the response, @Amit M.. I was hoping you'd chime in.

    The additional reason 3) costs so much is because (according to the engineer), in order for it to be code compliant I will need to add an additional bracing wall underneath the house parallel the short side. This will require new cement footings etc. He essentially said that the existing perimeter foundation is not enough to meet the requirements of chapter A3. I've been trying to get a second opinion on this, but I'm about 1 for 15 on Engineers saying they have time for a new project, so I'm pretty much taking him at his word here.

    I'm less concerned about having an approved permit and more concerned about protecting the structure properly during an earthquake. (Although an approved permit is required for the $3k grant).

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  • Amit M.
    Rental Property Investor · San Francisco, CA · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    8y

    Yeah some horizontal wall running on the short side will always help. But I’m wondering if it can be done with a footing midway and not a full foundation. Or if it’s just a crawl space, some beams reinforced with plywood. Maybe the full foundation is most ideal, but I’m not convinced a cheaper alternative I mentioned will be 98% as good. Basically, you have the option. When building new, an addition, etc. you don’t have the option and must follow the code to a T.  

    I’d keep reaching out to engineers until you can get a few opinions. Keep us posted here on your progress!

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  • Tim V.
    OP
    San Francisco, CA · Member since 2015 · 21 posts · 8 votes
    8y
    Originally posted by @Amit M.:

    But I’m wondering if it can be done with a footing midway and not a full foundation. Or if it’s just a crawl space, some beams reinforced with plywood. Maybe the full foundation is most ideal, but I’m not convinced a cheaper alternative I mentioned will be 98% as good. 

    This makes sense, thanks for the clarification. I've managed to get a hold of two more engineers who are accepting new work and will hopefully get one out so I can pick their brain a bit. Will keep everyone posted.

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  • Tim V.
    OP
    San Francisco, CA · Member since 2015 · 21 posts · 8 votes
    7y

    Had another structural engineer cancel on me today. I definitely seem to be in the wrong line of work...

    After talking it over with a few more people, I'm going to forego the engineered solution and the grant money, and just hire a handyman to bolt and brace. I might end up doing it myself so if anyone has good literature on installing anchor bolts please send it my way. In the end I don't think the added benefit of the additional shear way justifies $20k additional dollars. Hopefully I don't come to regret this decision in the future :)

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  • Amit M.
    Rental Property Investor · San Francisco, CA · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    7y

    Thanks Tim, and good luck 🍀 

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