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Updated almost 5 years ago on . Most recent reply

User Stats

55
Posts
33
Votes
Adam Sharp
  • Investor
  • Seattle, WA
33
Votes |
55
Posts

LVP and Underlayment Questions

Adam Sharp
  • Investor
  • Seattle, WA
Posted

What is the general consensus out there given the two options below:?

LVP with underlayment attached

OR

LVP with detached/seperate underlayment?

I'm leaning towards this combination for my condo project:

LifeProof LVP w/ Underlayment atop Quietwalk Underlayment

Is that overkill? Can anyone provide the tried and true most cost effective method? My rationale for going the route above is that I know as an amatuer I will only be able to get the floor "SO" level and this would give me the most room/cushion for error and hide more imperfections. Added benefit is it will stay warmer during Seattle winters. The manufacturer says NO underlayment with the LVP linked above (voids warranty) but is this a real concern?

Thanks!

Most Popular Reply

User Stats

55
Posts
33
Votes
Adam Sharp
  • Investor
  • Seattle, WA
33
Votes |
55
Posts
Adam Sharp
  • Investor
  • Seattle, WA
Replied

Hi all - thanks for all the help and advice on this project, it came out great for a first timer :)  I've attached some photos for all you you to take a look at the finished product.

A few notes / lessons learned for me.

1. i used self leveling concrete to make up for a lot of discrepencies in the floor.  I think i mixed it a little thick - next time i will make the mixture more runny so it spreads out a little better.  There was a little wall/dropoff where the leveling compund ended and the original floor remained so i had to use floor mortar to feather it down....still when walking on the new LVP, i can tell where the dropoff is/was.

SO, next time i will 1. make the SLC more runny, 2. on a small job (500sf) ill plan to cover the entire space with the SLC so there are no transitions, and 3. the LVP with the underlayment attached seemed to work great on the portion of the floor that was on slab, but feels cheap to walk on in other areas - so next time i will most likely go with a product that allows a thick underlayment to go own underneath it.

The last thing i learned was that the 1/4" gap around the borders that is recommedned is too generous as it is almost impossible to hit on the nose.  I laid down 1/2" baseboards and have some gaps in places...next time i will shoot for a tighter fit around the borders.

All in all, great project, and I got to buy a brad naller and a chop saw for this one so I am happy as a clam.

Thanks again for all your wisdom and advice BP Community.  I couldnt have done it without ya!

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