Do you cut costs by just hanging 1/4" drywall over old (no demo)?

Question

First, what I'm exactly saying is only cutting out lines across walls for all new rough-in electrical/plumbing/hvac/any mold damage AND THEN just hanging new 1/4" right on top to create a fresh new looking house. From my experience trying to make something old and abused look pretty again just takes as much time & money to just hang new. This keeps me from paying for 1-2 dumpsters plus all the extra work pulling it out, cleaning it out, getting out nails. I did this on my last flip only on the ceilings because ALL the great insulation sat on top and if I took it out it would have been a f+@*$%&$ mess and $$$ for new insulation.

I'm about to start my 3rd flip, another horrible ugly house, and I like to just gut everything and start new but I like to save $$$ and cut corners where I can to keep more profits.

The electrician is going to put in new boxes so extra drywall doesn't matter and I'm installing all new windows/doors so that doesn't matter either. Probably no insulation behind current walls...So I'd make everything tight and caulked.

Anyone ever do this or just spend more money to totally gut. I know if I start pulling out the drywall I'm going to find extra work.

This is just a 770sqft 1 story 1/1 converting to 2/2. Midwest in IL. Rough neighborhood. Total ARV only like $89-109k which is peanuts compared to east coast. I am doing 60% of the work pay myself out of this one because ARV is so low. This would go for $169k in VA.

Steve Vaughan · Answer

I've always just patched and textured and kept as a rental.  Don't see why less wouldnt be better as a simple flip.

Adding the drywall layer will make all your doors and doorways a pain even if you're replacing every window. Not to mention every receptical, phone, cable box, switch, etc.
A lot of people like the historical charm. Keep it simple👍

David Avery · Answer

This is the answer for the following reasons.

I myself doing the work if It were my flip.   Or Rental.  Take out the ceiling sheet rock to the corners or within 2 inches, remove the insulation and sheet rock.  Two loads to the dumps, ( no big deal). Then the other subs will have open and clean look and work.  During the winter may cost a bit to keep warm.  But this is the way to do it right and cheap.  it will look great when finished and not at all chopped up.

The cost of all the other subs to run everything with sheet rock in place is probably double.

You and I could hang the rock in one day and finish it off the next two days.  Demo is one day.

Rufus Littlefield · Answer

@Paul Meyer I have to second the skim coat idea. You're only paying for mud and a talented drywall finisher (unless you can do it yourself). Level 5 (and others, probably) make skimming blades up to 48" wide now, so going from a rough wall to a smooth wall isn't as difficult as it used to be.

Skimming should also be cheaper than adding 1/4" drywall because it won't require buying custom sized door jambs (to accommodate the thicker walls), using box extenders for electrical, removing and reinstalling base/crown molding, or any of the other issues you might run into by adding a layer of drywall.

Mike Reynolds · Answer

The funny thing is, the company is named Ace painting.

Mike Reynolds · Answer

I just noticed your from Austin. I used one from there 12 years ago that I have never seen his equal. I'll see if I can dig up that number.

Scott Mac · Answer

Ace sheetrock finisher  Link Please...

Paul Meyer · Answer

Hey guys UPDATE. I'm doing a remodel for my sister who lives in a fancy updated 1980's 3/2 modular and taking out the old kitchen cabinets a crew put the drywall right OVER the existing old original thin wood plastic walls that go in those things. You would have NEVER noticed because like I mentioned the just had the outlets come out probably quarter of inch more to match. I'm patching up the footprint spots in the existing new drywall now. So it just shows you don't have to demo all those drywall/wood panel walls you can just throw that drywall right over it when doing new electrical/plumbing and save some money. I think it actually helped double layer the wall to improve insulation and sound barrier. So now when I see 1970's-1980s wood paneling listings that need a makeover just think - I can drywall right over it! Sadly after more and more flips like my best property manager she always said "do less" but still quality where it counts. My sister thought she hired a licensed plumber on this too and it's been a train wreck but she also is too lazy to get 2-3 quotes so now I'm doing the finish job.

David Avery · Answer

walls just patch and match finish

Bruce Woodruff · Answer

No, don't use 1/4" drywall except on ceilings.....really simple to just patch and re-coat...

Paul Meyer · Answer

Thanks guys. As I mentioned this isn't a rental or I wouldn't really care too much as long as it was clean. I do higher end flips even in C class neighborhoods. I already know I'm going to have to make a lot of holes for rewiring/plumbing/hvac/repairs. I've only ever put drywall over drywall on the ceiling because of severe smoke damage (no smell nice and clean). However, I haven't done it over walls. I was planning on doing all the drywall myself so just materials maybe $1500 most on such a small house. I'm not a local in this area and I'm trying to get references but I find it so difficult like most to find expert fair priced contractors so for the time I wait and twiddle my thumbs I rather just do it myself in the same time I don't flip tons of homes.

I guess I'll know soon but will try to get a quote for just repair/skimming first but if its more than what I can do it for just demo and redo I'll likely pass for a brand new home look because everything going to be replaced anyway. Theres not much charmer or in this home just a simple bungalow.

Thanks again.

Do you cut costs by just hanging 1/4" drywall over old (no demo)?

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