Place was tented in 2015, so hopefully it's all old and won't require much.Rotting Support - The back portion of the 1/1 has a beam that is either heavily rotted or termite damaged.

@Seth Borman - Not to be contrarian but rules of thumb (ROT) are a very efficient way of doing business.

It also takes days to install with dry times at each step.

Left about 100 workers high and dry.   

They clogged the toilet and failed to ensure it was shut off before leaving town.This may be a big expense because sewer water can't just be sucked up and dried out. you're fortunate it was caught early. 

There are lots of different ACs that you could add, but I would only do so after structural issues are addressed.Plus, from the sound of it, you're going to face some unknown hurdles, so keep your powder dry.

Dry rot and mold would balloon your budget. 

My concrete guy for example instead of pouring the new parking pad and sidewalk in November in relatively good weather, waited until January and then we got lucky with a “warm” 40 degree string of dry days he could pour.

wells are priced of course by a few things.diameter of the bore.depth of the hole..what type of material they are going throughand how much casing. so just check around and get price for diameter and depth then check well logs if they are public for surrounding properties to see how deep the water table is.keep in mind you can have a dry hole move over 200 feet and hit a geyser.My daddy always used a douser local tribe members are some of the best dousers.

P&B are usually much cheaper to work on (sometimes not if it’s low to ground, poor access, and/or wood rot and termite damage.But, never a need to get scared off, sometimes those are good opportunities if you know a reliable foundation repairman