As far as your next property, if you are already considering moving you will get better loan options + interest rates if you decide to live in the next property and rent out your current house. 

It may or may not show on a credit report, depends on the servicing and you should have the loan serviced.Failure to include the debt on a future loan application is mortgage fraud, wanna go to jail?

Another pro for a HELOC is not having to meet a HML's requirements for a loan (insurance, draw schedules etc....)

You could build a new one every 2-3 years and move into it as a primary so the bank would be more friendly with your loan.

.- Do you have 200-250k cash, or is that what you can get with your loan amount?

Bridge Loan: A bridge loan could provide the $150,000 you need until your tenant-free property sells.

I would include servicing costs of the loan and licensing costs.

This vary heavily town to town. 20% down is great if buying strictly as investment but if you have a way of owner occupying I would explore that route and apply the 20% down to increasing value of property and instead using low money down loan. 

., Purchase Price: $475,000 ($197.9/sq. ft.).Estimated Market Value: $402,000 ($168/sq. ft.).Financing Terms: 2% interest rate, with a 9-year balloon.Unit B Income: $2,049/month (Section 8 tenant through November 2025).Unit A Income Potential: Similar rent or higher; Section 8 cap for the area is $3,234/month.Monthly Loan Payment (P+I): $1,386.Cash Flow Breakdown (if both units are rented at $2,049/month):Gross Rent: $4,098/month.Vacancy (10%): $410/month.Operating Expenses (37.3%): $1,376/month.Net Cash Flow: $943/month.Key QuestionsWould you be comfortable paying an 18% premium for financing at 2%, especially in a market where current mortgage rates are closer to 7%?

Furthermore you can vastly increase your returns through leverage using a non-recourse loan but that will definitely trigger UBIT but again the numbers can still make a lot of sense.