I have a similar 1926 Spanish bungalow in LA (3bed 2 bath, 1300sqft, single level), that i just rebuilt completely, so here's my 2 cents1. with plumbing and sewer, make sure that you insect and assess the main drain line form house to street sewer - in houses of that age, they are cast iron and are often buried under a concrete driveway. if it needs to be replaced, make sure re-pavement of driveway is accounted for2. houses of that age have often started as 2bed 1bath and then somewhere along the way been converted to say 3/2 - mine was in the 70's. ask whoever inspecting the foundation to pay attention to the way it's laid out - variation in crawl-space hight, floor joists and different materials used for pillars that house sits on could point to an addition. flat roof over one of the bedrooms or bathrooms in an otherwise house with an attic is another sign it's been added. either way, check with the city that those additions are legal/permitted3. termite damage and dry rot in California and Arizona is a given - in any house, especially that old. as you walk around the rooms, stop in each corner of every room and jump up a few times - if the floor is soft and even a sign of weakness, i bet you you'll have to re-drywall, remove subfloor and repair floor joists in at lest half of that room. just a simple "poking wood for termites" test from the crawl space often misses that. i like my jumping test as well5. size and age of electrical panel - yes, but also age of main electrical wire runs is important. those are usually suspended in crawl spaces or laying on top of ceiling joists in the attic. old wire should be replaced as it's a potential fire-hazard surrounded by all the old fluffy insulation that's in old attics - speaking of fluffy insulation, i hear in some cases it could contain asbestos, so wouldn't hurt to checkfyi, just installed central air in my house and my best estimate - had 7 total - came through Costco at just under $7000 for a 3-ton Lennox system (heat and cool), all new ductwork, permit and inspections. curious as to what your HVAC bid was

I basically own the building and a 10 foot strip of pavement all the way around the building.

Think, flat billed baseball caps, sentences always completed by using the word "Bro", lifted 4x4 pickups that NEVER leave the pavement, tattoos, Harley Davidson, and very, very low IQ's.

Some classroom training and book reading helps get you started but there is no substitute for beating the pavement and looking at houses, making offers, researching comps and talking to every investors you can find.

I just had a 10 X 20 patio mud jacked so that it no longer slopes toward the house.Seal any cracks in concrete or asphalt surfaces to keep water from getting under it and then traveling toward the basement.

It seems to be a boots on the ground, pounding the pavement market for investors.So, Renee, I'd suggest you walk the neighborhoods, go through houses as if you were the investor, document repairs needed, rents for the area, estimate costs for the repairs, determine ARV, et cetera.

Also, I have a guy who is able to do a new driveway for the same cost for asphalt and cement.

I really like the idea of ripping it out and replacing it with asphalt and striping the parking spaces.

I really like the idea of ripping it out and replacing it with asphalt and striping the parking spaces.

Utilities are underground and the asphalt road is in pretty good shape.