we are putting in something like that in every shower going forward...but we have never done a horizontal shaped one.

We typically use 3/4" furring strips applied vertically (for horizontal siding) to provide an air space behind the siding.

However, I bought this property several years ago as a short sale and the previous owners (who are the ones who originally had the cabinets installed) didn't leave a forwarding address when they moved) and I have no idea where they purchased these cabinets from.2)  Cut out the entire bottom 1/3 or so of the panel and replace it with a 3/8" thick piece of "A" grade plywood (the existing particle board is also 3/8" thick and sits in a groove so I was thinking I could take it out and pop the plywood right in), then stain it as close as possible to match and put a horizontal piece of trim on the exterior to cover up the seem where the new plywood piece will meet up with the existing panel.3)  Cover the entire bottom 1/3 or so of the panel (inside and out) with 1/8" thick pieces of "A" grade plywood, then stain both sides as close as possible to match, and put a horizontal piece of trim on the exterior to cover up the seem where the new plywood piece will meet up with the existing panel.

Let me know if you prefer to PM, text or e-mail me.TimCan't speak for Colorado but in Seattle the banks almost never give out horizontal loans, particular on long plats.

They don’t provide appropriate horizontal back pressure and are built to fail much sooner than poured concrete. ~80 miles from where I sit right now probably 60% of basements with blocks have been replaced or reinforced so that the house sits on steel posts and posts have been installed along all exterior basement walls so that the blocks can’t shift anymore.

The inspeaction reveaved some horizontal foundation cracks near the top of the foundation as well as some mold.

If the b-box is under the parkway on my side of the street, wouldn't horizontal boring save all the street sidewalk and curb cuts/repair? 

A lot of that has to do with the fact that I draw from much older design models than many renovators... the houses I work on are either older (1950's) or designed to look older (Neo-bungalow/victorian crossovers).All that means is that while I have certain design modes I try to follow (No horizontal tile surfaces, for example), the houses I work on generally each tend to require something unique to the house.Example, the neo-bungalow we built most recently has a craftsman/early Victorian crossover trim package that incorporates both simple door and window casing with very craftsman-looking pediments, and cove molding which is a very early-Victorian thing to do.

A large and deep hole was created and two vertical steel beams and one horizontal steel beam header was built along with a steel beam in the floor which was wrapped with rebar and filled with cement (after this photo was taken of course).

Vertical fences are fine in most places, but horizontal ones look really sharp but are more expensive.