The framers drink beer, the finish guys smoke weed, the dry-wallers are all on meth, the painters will take whatever you got, and the architect was on too much acid.

In addition in places like kitchens/baths you can put down a moisture barrier to keep water from the subfloor.On the engineered wood, haven't used it for a while, but my main complaints:1) Spill water on it like in a kitchen, it gets soaked up by the center layer and rots out.2) It used to be softer. 

That model will dry up your purchasing power unless you have a war chest and or looking just to park your money.

We bought the home and the inspector said everything was fine, even the roof that had a "dry" leak that was fixed.

We bought the home and the inspector said everything was fine, even the roof that had a "dry" leak that was fixed.

I want to know right away, before it causes the cabinet to rot, then the floor and subfloor...Training them correctly is actually neither hard nor time consuming.It starts when I schedule an appointment - I pre-screen over the phone, because I want to hear their voice and how they communicate, but then it's mostly text messages.

Sold her home to a wholesaler for 200K who had another wholesaler who bought it for 300K before the ink was dry.

That's real expensive, and then when he gets in and discovers that there is rehab to be done, a water heater to replace, rot in the subfloors he's sunk.Besides most of the HML I know require at least 6months reserves and 10-20% down too.

Prices are down, bidding wars dried up, price reductions are all over the place, and homes are staying on the market a lot longer.

There seems to be so much dry powder sitting on the sidelines that sourcing capital may not be a challenge here but finding a good deal is the actual challenge.Not looking for any secret sauce but are there good general pointers out there for deal flow strategies?