However for my primary residence I might like tile with grout on the floors and bathroom walls. 

I need to take out the dryer anyway because I suspect that the dryer vent has never been cleaned, and it runs 25' feet, so it's not one of those through-the-wall ones you don't really have to worry about.I figure I'm going to have an afternoon routine once every five years of pulling out the dryer, draining the WH, snaking the dryer vent, replacing the anode, and putting everything back again.

I'm hoping to add an outlet/box to wall and move the switch to the box, ultimately mimicking the basement-HVAC setup.

Or does it have to all come down and be dry walled?

What have I done so far: So far I've found a few deals, asked agents about them, and when the agent says who are you working on finance through I hit a wall. 1) I haven't been pre approved by anyone. 2) It seems during all of these podcasts/videos on BP they say "just make an offer" so I get tripped up when I actually get asked where's the money. and 3) well..

The options are hire painter for $5,000 to paint a whole house (ceilings, walls, trim, as well as small touchups for drywall nicks, caulk gaps in baseboards, etc). 

& I have a wholesale mentor who can help me out if I run into a brick wall.

The wall runs the lengh of the home, ( down the middle ), so is that a load bering wall?

One of the reasons for going high efficiency is that you can direct vent the exhaust through PVC piping through the wall rather than having to vent through a chimney and over the roof.Chimneys need liners, they can leak exhaust (carbon monoxide) into the living space, they typically are brick structures rising above the roof line (oh and they usually seem ready to drop bricks due to lack of maintenance) ...

I needed to find things like; side clearance for toilet, restrictions on spaces between fixtures and wall etc.