That same realtor will also be managing the property when renovations are complete (just paint and refinishing hardwood floors left). 

We ripped out the whole kitchen and a bathroom, replaced all tile, appliances, cabinets, built a deck, replaced all trim, painted, and refinished hardwood floors.

@Jacob AllenI would cover brick (with 4" of polyisocyanurate hardboard) and refinish with stucco before I would paint brick {Note: this is the plan for a deep energy retrofit on our own house}.Generally (98% of the time) I am solidly in the don't paint brick camp.

if they are 3/4" thick, just sand it out and re-finish it, if it is a laminate, you need to be more careful, you can lightly sand them and refinish or you may try buffing it out.

I prefer the real stuff.The engineered cannot be sanded and refinished because it only has a thin layer of real wood on top.The real stuff can last forever, but I guess that doesn't matter much if you're selling.I've always been able to find some nice prefinished oak for under $3/sq.

This entails sufficiently sanding/scuffing ALL the surfaces being painted... a very tedious, time-consuming process on raised-panel doors.Or, you could remove the doors and drawers, take them to a furniture refinisher or cabinet shop, and have them prepped or stripped (a lot of these shops have strip tanks which makes the process easy).

It seems hardwood is the way to go at $2,300 because it can be sanded and refinished over and over again.

Everything from small stuff like shaving and aligning doors to refinishing floors and new ceilings.

You might not want to use such a heavy-duty tool on wood that you plan to refinish, but refinishing seems unlikely here. 

There is a lot of variance in finish qualities in either refaced or refinished.