., etc.Other than age-specific issues like LBP and asbestos, the things I'd look for on an old house would be much the same as what I'd look for on a newer house--these things would include: signs of water diversion failures (such as rot, peeling paint, masonry damage), settling issues, the type and age of plumbing, HVAC, and electrical, the condition of the sewer main (scope it), the type and age of windows & doors, a meth test, a radon test, etc. etc.I have properties from the 1910s, 40s, 50s, 60s, and 2000s, and frankly--the older properties are often my favorites, and some of them are the best-performing properties in my portfolio.Just being an old house doesn't--in and of itself--make a property "good" or "bad"...plus, old houses sometimes have charm and aesthetic appeal that no new house can touch.

And no financing.some more facts being that I started a masonry business 1-1/2 years ago and do not have my full 2 years tax returns.

Sorry @Scott Lunn I thought the 15K included the masonry work...I would offer what the other suggested above and include contingencies so you can back out if the numbers don't work.

I dropped out in the 10th grade and went to work for a masonry GC.

Steve at Twin Masonry. 652-248-3209.

Burke's Roofing and Masonry has done strong work for me in Brunswick.Hope that helps

@Collin Schwartz there are a few niche insurance carriers who like these old buildings if the construction is joisted masonry, which it sounds like it is given the flat roof and age. 

J Metz Masonry

If a buyer sees a beautiful well kept home they do not care if it is modular, built with 2x4 or with masonry.

I finally figured out that if I went down the paint and used a sharpened scraper, I could take sheets of the paint off the masonry walls.