30 March 2010 | 12 replies
Now your mess is recessed below the surface, and you can make a standard application with your compound.
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28 January 2010 | 12 replies
wheelhouse antiquing depends on your painter or should i say your artist you can get a couple of labor guys like eric claims. but if your going to turn this house around and this goes for just about any repair get someone that knows what there doing. references are key get pictures. repairing someones mistakes sometimes cost more than the fix by the way i've been patching and repairing doors jambs all types of wood work sinks tubs and any other surface that can use patching so if anybody whans to save some money i can do dentistry work just shoot me an email by the way prices can very from 25 up to 100 and so on depending on what your sold on as soon as i get a chance ill upload some pictures to give you some ideas
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1 July 2010 | 3 replies
You might consider vinyl (cheaper) if you want a hard surface.
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29 April 2016 | 17 replies
Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) will work on hard, non-porous surfaces, but does not absorb well into porous materials such as wood to get at the mycelia of the mould.
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10 August 2016 | 9 replies
(pillows and stuffed animals can be put directly in the dryer on high heat). we took all the furniture apart that we could, and covered the entire room with diatomaceous earth(including taking dresser drawers out and getting every nook and cranny- being thorough is key), pulling all small items, picture frames, legos, toys, candlesticks, anything on the walls, in the closets, storage items- everything we didn't cover in de, in the center of the room and/or soaked in tubs of vinegar. we wrapped the legs of all furniture that couldn't be taken apart with saran wrap, and placed them in shallow bowls of vaseline(makeshift trap). when the bedding and fabric items came out of the dryer, we bagged them in garbage bags, and secured the bags with packing tape, making sure there were no cracks or tears, then put them in the center of the room. 4. we did that to each bedroom, the living room, dining room, and bathroom. in the kitchen, we puffed de behind the switch plates with the foam inserts, and under appliances that generate heat(heat=bedbug food). 5. we let it sit like that for two weeks, and when we were done, we cleaned thoroughly. we bought a good handheld steamer for everything that could be steamed. we cleaned one room at a time, starting with a vacuum, and wiping the de of hard surfaces. we left de in the nooks and crannies(by the way- they CAN live behind wallpaper, and even the tags sewn onto mattresses), and made sure that everything we put back from the center of the room was steamed, vacuumed, or wiped off thoroughly. we replaced every mattress and bought good covers for each of them, as a preventative measure. also as preventative measures, we left the de under appliances, we left the foam inserts behind the switch plates, and for a few weeks after, we left the vaseline traps in place.
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7 September 2016 | 7 replies
The idea is that the DampRid and cleaning the surface would keep any mold growing from the interior space from coming back.
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1 November 2016 | 77 replies
With all the FED manipulation it's hard to see the underlying economics that will eventually surface.
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29 December 2016 | 4 replies
When painting anything, 70% is in the preparation of the surface being painted.
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17 May 2019 | 215 replies
I cannot tell from the photo what it is, because they cropped the adjoining properties.
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8 May 2017 | 17 replies
I try to use a much tile and masonry as possible in the wet areas, but on exposed plaster/sheetrock in baths in use semi-gloss or satin, depending on the condition of the surface.