If the cabinet bottoms are still ratty, either cover with a stick-on vinyl or a coat of quality latex enamel once clean and dry.

If it's dry out, it will be faster than if it was humid.  

It's much tougher now as inventory has dried up severly.

I have been reading/studying for almost 7 years, but I have not been able to pull the trigger and jump in.

Just to give you guys an idea of how some of the larger companies work, we just hired a national building company to dry-in (frame, side and roof) a new build of ours -- total bill for the job was about $50,000.

I've built a few fences before and durability wise I've always used screws instead of nails,used treated 4x4, and 2x4, make sure 2 bys are standing up and overlapping 4 bys make sure to tell contractor too premix cement before pouring in hole ive seen guys put water in hole then pour dry concrete and procede to try to mix it normaly I go about 2 feet deep hole and they last pretty good did 300 feet 2 years ago still looking good

I agree with the general thought that you should stick with your plan.However why did you try shot gunning these offers if you weren't going to pull the trigger?

The cost of drying and disposal of sludge is much greater than if the material was just put in the trash (sent to the conventional landfill).

I am getting very anxious as the day draws nearer for me to actually pull the trigger on this!

.), it will be around another $100k, i.e. 20% would be around 40k.Yes obviously he is looking for an out, he did 84 deals last year so his options with regular financing are dried up.