-StevenMy thoughts exactly....we have a property we rehabbed the year of purchase & have owned it 30 years (depreciation is done) & we just spent $36,000 upgrading every inch of it.

It's like 3 inches of water. 

Brush up on building code requirements: in basements you're looking for egress windows that are 5.7 sq feet or more openable (3ft by 3ft casement style windows work best), and ceiling heights 6ft 8 inches or greater (as little as 6 ft 4 inches is ok under ductwork and beams though)2.

And been digging down, inches, in gravel driveway, after the roots of offending weeds, that been living in it.

Mowing stripes and fresh mulch are quick, easy, and inexpensive ways to get some curb appeal!

Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16"inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24" inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6" inches in the field. - OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width).

I promptly went back to this house which sits on a decline and is approximately 10 feet away from the edge of a ravine, and could see a substantial crack just inches above ground level, which extends across the back and one of the sides of the foundation, which had been patched but unsuccessfully repaired.

Half of the kitchen floor is now about an inch above the other half.

You can then put 1 to 1 1/2 inch with the fines, versus a base of 3 to 4 inch rock. 

As well as 14 inches in the roof to create an airtight thermal envelope.