The property also has a pool, which appears to be decommissioned, how-ever, my father-in-law has been a professional install/maintenance 'pool boy' for many years, and I myself have done many jobs with him.

There is bad news around “The Oil Patch” and Saskpower has been decommissioning boilers.

According to our agent, the sites are going to be capped and decommissioned this year, but obviously we will still need to verify.Does anyone have any experience dealing with fracking sites, or have any insight based on what they have seen or experienced? 

I already had a gas line running to the house, but PGW told me it was "decommissioned" a long time ago.

We ended up converting it to city sewer which ended up being an extra $3499 ($1275 for the conversion with the city and $2125 for a plumber to lay the new sewer pipe to the city and to decommission the septic tank and $100 for more sod).

.- Parks are becoming more scarce as time goes by, mostly due to municipalities not allowing new park permits to be issued for new park construction and older parks being decommissioned for a few reasons I can't articulately recall at the moment.That is about all the solid I can do for you.

Since the property could possibly be considered a residential since one unit is "decommissioned", I would try to swing a 20% down payment instead of the standard 25% - 30%.

I own an 8-unit, class C multifamily building in coastal Virginia and am looking for a heating alternative that will allow me to decommission the central boiler.

Any double wide I have purchased that had hurricane tie downs, had the title decommissioned, and had a permanent foundation, I was able to finance with a DSCR loan or a commercial loan at a local bank.

Modern gas stoves and fireplace inserts are sealed (airtight) with respect to the living space (room) and vent their combustion air from outside - typically a separate pipe through the side of the building or a centre pipe within the exhaust flue (either through the side of the building or as a sleeve in an existing chimney.The cheapest way to stop air and heat from being drawn up your chimney is to decommission your fireplace; stuff insulation in the top of the firebox against the closed damper; then tape a sheet of 6mil poly (vapour barrier) under the insulation being certain to create a seal with the sides of the firebox all the way around the perimeter of the barrier.Since you still want to use your fireplace periodically, but do not wish to incur the expense of installing an airtight insert, you could still attempt to plug the top of the firebox when you are not using the fireplace.