There are basically only 2 methods to buy real estate at bargain prices:Method #1Situations where you are the only potential buyer who knows about the deal (no competition), and the seller is willing to accept your offer and terms without seeking outside bids (offers) from anyone else.Method #2Where the public knows about a property that’s available but cannot visualize its potential value – like after it’s all fixed up.

I’ve purchased an online course but I’m a visual learner and was hoping one of you could help me out.

I would avoid turnkey companies who cant give direct answers, won't allow you to visually inspect properties personally, won't allow for a 3rd party inspector to come in, and those who are slow to respond.

For even more accuracy, we choose to only use comps that are 1/3 mile away or less, with sales dates within the last six months.Sometimes, even the street can make a difference in the value of a property.If the only comps you have are on very nice streets, but the house you’re considering is on a very “distressed” street, then you have to reduce the ARV.How much is an appropriate reduction is a judgment call on your part.You’ll want to base that call on how much of a discount will be necessary to entice the final owner/occupant to buy this property over one they can get on the “better” street.If the comparable sale that you are using is too different from the subject property, then it is of little value.If you use it in your sales marketing, you’ll lose credibility with your Investor Buyers.An example of a poor comparable is when your subject property is an old cottage fixer-upper, and you compare it to the sale of a brand new in-fill (an in-fill is a new house built on a vacant lot in an otherwise established neighborhood).Rehab dollars vary according to level and detail of the job – everyone has a different formula.As a wholesaler, we suggest a middle-of-the-road approach for estimating enough rehab dollars to get the subject property to look like the comps.You’ll need to spend more on rehab as the ARV increases.Logically,buyers like more ‘pretty-ness’, higher-end fixtures, cabinets, etc. when they’re paying $200,000 vs. when they’re only paying $100,000 for a house.Buy/Sell/Hold costs are all of the costs associated with:üThe purchase (loan origination fees, title insurance, attorney fees, survey, appraisals, etc);üThe sale (real estate agent commissions, marketing and advertising, closing costs paid by the Seller); and üHolding the property (mortgage interest, utilities, taxes, insurance, etc.).

I'm a bit more visual and personally appreciate a more minimalistic approach to presenting data and information.

Bigger Pockets Youtube channel is great to get a visual when learning some of the basics (analyzing deals etc), but also the BP podcats obviously.I also like "cash flow ninja" podcast, and "lifetime cashflow with real estate" by rod klief. 

@Derek Daun, does the insurance company know of the visual damage to the garage roof or were they just concerned about the tree limbs resting on the roof, which you have already taken care of?  

Create a visual of the score of the project and create a list of the things that are affected. 

The flooring vendor thinks the hallway floors need a 1/4 plywood underlay for the vinyl, which I think would be a disaster visually.

You can also use national tax lien association website resource section to look up the tax lien state map as that is visual as well.