Have my eye on a 2 lot package in a desirable area.On lot had a mobile home which has been removed but there is a cement pad still.

With washer and dryer there is more value.More value = more rent.Just like painted cement floors and hard wood floors.

A lot of cement backer board and older galvanized pipes can clog easy.

Hi Johann,I doubt you can (for lack of a better term) "Fight City Hall" on this one.If they cancel you, and you have a mortgage, they will Notice the lender you are no longer covered, which will probably trigger some "unpleasantness" for you.And seriously, have you not walked your own property and noticed the cement sidewalk heaving up (if that is what the 1" lip is) (???)

Hi all, We have a plot of land just outside of Orlando that we’re considering getting several 2,000 houses build.Construction wise, we’re looking into poured, precast panels, and concrete blocks.

Most of the flooring I lay either replaces damaged oak strip in patches or in whole, or, generally in the case of kitchens, I rip up the flooring, put in 5/8 in exterior plywood sheathing, and lay tile over 1/4 in. cement board.Let's talk about the tile: the reason I would not recommend this strategy to everyone is that it is labor intensive and takes time, and it's usually practically impossible to tell the difference from a tile floor installed over cement board that will last five years and one that will last fifty.

Most concrete companies make them daily with left over cement/concrete from loads coming back.

I am torn between pointing the rocks with hydraulic cement and dry locking versus having an interior waterproofing system installed.

The line at this time is all copper and about 6'10" below a cement parking spot behind the house.

The bottom circle is the new pvc sewer line in good shape all the way through.So I plugged it up with a bucket of hydraulic cement... and presto!