For comparison purposes, do not pay too close attention to the pre-paid items or the escrow portion of the fees as in the end they will all be the same, just figure out who has the lowest Lender/Title fees and then once you narrow it down, have the LO's explain the escrow portion, I say this, because a newer less experienced LO will "just let the computer figure it all out and a lot of times on the estimate they will just use generic figures like 6 month taxes and 6 months insurance, however, this is not going to be accurate, these should be based on when the next due date is and a reasonable pad (2-3 months is standard for this pad).

@Tyler George Better may not offer, and most Better LO’s are new to industry and never have worked for another lender so may just assume anything they can’t do no other lender can do.

So if I have the deal and you have the capital, I'll invite you to be my private lender for the down payment, and get a normal mortgage from a local investor friendly LO for the other 75% or 80% of sales price.

I have sold to a few other investors on L/O as well.My biggest caution to you is don't put more than 3% of the purchase price up for option money. 

And as I said, in '07, the SHTF and we've still not recovered from it, so I'm mainly looking for the 'no money down, quick cash' (or L/O, RTO or subject-to deals that can provide 'income' from rent, without liability of debt.)

He spent much time with me educating on the work and simplicity of do LO's right.

After that period, be cautious of OWC originated without a LO and verify everything.

All are S  L  O  W and huge amounts of paperwork.  

No matter what you decide, just make sure whatever you "attempt" that you place it on the HUD "before" the LO submits the file to the lender, otherwise it's illegal.

My main takeaways are:1) I need to actually contact some LO's to see how I stack up to the qualifications.