If you need a new job once you move, you will need an offer letter prior to closing on your new home (and you will need 6 months reserves in order to be able to use the offer letter as income). 

Most work like this: Rates: 9% to 13% (Most Deals are 11-12%)Terms: up to 36 Months (Most Deals are 6-12 months)Fees: 2-4 points(%) of loan amount paid at closing (Most Deals are 3 points(%))Minimum Loan Amount: $50,000 (For loans less than $250,000 $2,500 minimum fee)Max Loan: 65%-70% of After Repair Value(ARV)100% Rehab Financing Available (Require 20% of purchase price down payment or cross-collateral)Closing Timeframe: 48 Hours - 3 Weeks (Most Deals are 2 Weeks)NO PRIMARY RESIDENCES, NON-OWNER OCCUPIED ONLY, BUSINESS AND COMMERCIAL USE ONLY.

In my most recent 2 deals, both had contingencies and we still won the offer.

That's probably what I'd do first unless you just have no experience doing these deals at all. 

If the numbers work when I run them, I know reality should only be better.ActualsPurchase Price $227,500Interest Rate 30 year conventional 6.375%Homeowners Insurance = $920.21Rents = $1,900 per monthTotal mortgage + escrow = $1,182.58 per month with rents at $1,900 my actual cashflow is $717.42.Additional numbers behind the dealTotal cash to close = $87,475.55Down payment = $80,000Homeowners Insurance - $918.36Rate Buy Down 1.283% - $1,892.43We paid to lower the interest rate by 1.283% over the course of the 30-year loan.

I have called some local lenders (I prefer to deal with local banks if possible), but have not gotten very far.

I've done sub2 deals and wholesaled sub2 deals, am I a con artist/criminal? 

It's close to Overland Park and a few other major suburbs on the KS side.

25 inspection, 25 closing, 1 loan.

I was wondering what the best way to structure a deal with seller carry is?