Yeah I have this same problem.Make sure you spend an extra couple bucks per tube and get the good stuff.It will be waterproof tight and the good silicone stays pliable and flexes when expands.This keeps the seal 100% tight.The cheap crap won't flex and then will start cracking and allow water behind it in certain spots.Will slow the leak down but not get rid of it completely.I would take this time to make sure where the ceiling is soft that there is no leaks coming from the tub drain,shower diverter,or shower head pipe behind the wall.Also it's not always the tub leaking.The toilet is usually close by to the shower.The seal at the toilet to the floor for sewer or the bolts from the tank to bowl could be bad or the seal for the flush between the tank and the bowl.The water can slowly run down the outside of the back of the tank under the sub floor.When you take the drywall off and look at the sub floor underneath you should see darker areas where the leak is more prominent.You can also use a moisture meter to determine the first point of entry for the leak.Make sure control valve and diverter are snug to the wall and sealed properly.Water can get behind there while taking a shower and cause a slow drip.

As they are all electric units (not gas), I don't have 220V service, in addition to the fact that washer/dryer can occasionally flood (4 units are on 2nd floor) as well as cost & moisture issues.I considered nad dropped the idea of coin op laundry given the buildings small size (6 units) and the fact that the outdoor "laundry shed" is not very secure and tenants constantly leave the shed door open and the coinboxes could be targeted, as well as I already have problems keeping neighbors from using it, etc.I am going to have the water company come out after closing, tell everyone to stop using water and they will check to see if the meter still spins - toilet leaks and faucet drips come to mind (I also wonder about possible main line water break, I had that happen twice in my life).

That's going to be plowed over and over and I have to think any sort of pavers will get water penetration, heaving, and then get knocked out by the plows.Its Breck, not Aspen.

You want the moisture out.

Water/moisture is a place that can harbor mold.

In Dallas, and Austin, there is soil moisture change that often cracks foundations.

Silt will absorb moisture and likely expand (or contract depending its moisture content). 

Combined with a structural silicon adhesive that joins the reinforced window to the entire perimeter of the frame you have a normal looking window that's difficult to penetrate.

If the outlets are old, especially two-pronged, or if they have been exposed to frequent moisture they could well be deteriorated and unsafe.

If there is alot of water damage to a rubber roof and the boards are wet then yeah you have to replace them. this is what will happen if you leave moisture underneathe with rubber.