VANTAGESCOREAmount of Recent Credit - 30%Consumer’s Payment History - 28%Utilization of Consumer’s Current Credit - 23%Size of Consumer’s Account Balances - 9%Amount of Consumer’s Available Credit - 1%VantageScore uses both a numerical range (501 to 990) for scores (similar to FICO) and a letter grade that is designed to better reflect a consumer’s credit health. 901 - 990 = A or Super Prime801 - 900 = B or Prime Plus701 - 800 = C or Prime601 - 700 = D or Non-Prime501 - 600 = F or High RiskThe VantageScore method is particularly useful for consumers with little credit history and those with prior negative actions against them but have good recent credit history.

Anyone on bp doing this in the D.? Or

You can tell if the property is east of a certain major street that it's A, B, C, D or F neighborhood.

., the trustee or custodian), C) An employer, any of whose employees are covered by the plan (this generally is not applicable to IRAs but dos include the owner of a business that establishes a qualified retirement plan), D)An employee organization any of whose members are covered by the Plan (this generally is not applicable to IRAs), E) A 50 percent owner of C or D above, F) A family member of A, B, C, or D above (family members include the fiduciary’s spouse, parents, grandparents, children, grandchildren, spouses of the fiduciary’s children and grandchildren (but not parents-in-law), G) An entity (corporation, partnership, trust or estate) owned or controlled more than 50 percent by A, B, C, D, or E.

******Here comes the most important part******4 - Pay off all balances before the 0% interest goes "bye-bye" by:         a - Flipping house         b - Refinancing house         c - Selling Equity Position in house that covers all C.C. balances         d - ....or other exit strategy that pays off the c.c. before you get charged any interest

All of my properties would be considered D or C by many here.

Hi, all.How do you determine if a neighborhood is an A or D or in between?

Personally, I find a middle ground, I do not invest in D or warzone properties/areas no matter what the price or ROI and I do not buy expensive non-cookie cutter properties which have a lower ROI than the stock market - I invest in properties/areas that are cookie cutter 'middle class American dreams' which will appeal to most, I want to have enough cash flow to leave room for error and to make a personal finance difference but not too much that it will suck up my $ on the buy in.

Schedule D or form 4797?

Schedule D or Form 4797?