Recommend sloping grading away from home 1" per foot to avoid grading erosion, foundation seepage and possible foundation movement (85-90% of all foundation moisture problems can be avoided with proper grading and downspout extensions).

If you just have a window, maybe you just need to educate your tenant about moisture issues.

I believe you usually staple moisture barrier to the studs before the cement board and tile.

That entire part of the country is unstable because of the clay type and moisture expansion and contraction cycles.

A lot of folks don't realize that even if you stop a moisture trap, the bacteria will continue to spread throughout the damaged dry wall or other surfaces.

The downside is that they can often have excess moisture & are usually seen as gross when you are looking at homes built 40+ years ago.

The subsequent mold WOULD then be your responsibility to resolve because you did not alert the landlord of the condition of moisture, which, when left unresolved, leads to other bigger things like mold. 

Plus you will have to frame out the basement, add insulation, run all new electrical, add all new plumbing, plus drywall paint flooring etc.But more importantly if the house is older I can pretty much guarantee the basement will have moisture issues.

(rationale: inexpensive, durable, pretty good look over concrete slab, moisture resistant and easy to repair)Should I replace my gas cook stove with electric?

Tenants know I do a series of other maintenance items on the same trip.This is my basic list.(1) Replace AC filter.(2) Bleach AC condensate drain line.(3) Test thermostat and replace batteries if necessary.(4) Exercise ALL shutoff valves - kitchens and bathrooms.(5) Inspect and feel around under sink drains for moisture and leaks.(6) Open toilet tank and look at the tank bolts and overflow tube.(7) Test garbage disposer and throw some ice down.(8) Test smoke and fire alarms.