Both a) and b) discuss the appropriate courses of action necessary for a Broker or agent in representing a client(a) A broker is obligated under a listing contract to negotiate the best possible transaction for the principal, the broker has agreed to represent.

If you're only going to own the property for a couple of months, then a higher interest/lower monthly payment loan would be what I would suggest.However, If you're buying equity with the hope of seeing a larger payday further down the road, then you'd want a lower-interest conventional financing loan that you can pay principal down on as quickly as possible, but at that point, you're a buy-and-hold investor and not a flipper.Honestly, the best thing to invest in is education.

EMI calculator works on three main criterias – loan amount, tenor and the rate of interestHere’s the Formula whereE is EMIP is the Principal Loan Amountr is the rate of interest calculated on a monthly basisn is the tenor/duration of the loanEMI Calculator is very easy to use.

If you are a principal in a transaction, like a lessor, lessee, optionor, optionee, and you are transparent to the owner on your intention, that is the important thing.

After that, things begin picking up steam in terms of principal paydown for other homes.

Google it, and the 1st link from office.mircosoft.com should be the template you need.3. for the Excel spreadsheet, think of time progressing downwards; the further down in the rows you are, the further through the months4. to map each property, give each one 5 columns {Month #, Mortgage Balance, Principal, Interest, Additional Payment} * that is the month you're on in your repayment to the bank (1-360) * balance due to the bank * that month's principal payment (this is why it's handy to have the amortiation worksheet) * interest for that month * and what additional payments you'll kick in from the other properties.5. when adding a new property to the sheet, just list the following as headers so you can add them into your equations {purchase price, down payment, P&I, cashflow when mortgaged, cashflow when paid-off}.6. to make this all work, you take an iterative process * start by charting your 1st and only property, and plot it out so it takes 360 months to pay off * add in your 2nd property, and add its cashflow to the "additional payments" on you 1st (or have your 1st property's cashflow pushed into your 2nd .. whatever you like) * keep doing this up to your 15th (or in my spreadsheet's case, my 5th property)Some insights I've gained:* the snowball effect works!

Marc Faulkner just wondering about the original poster's question -- is there an "industry guideline/standard" or convention that a note buyer would buy only a certain % of the note's remaining principal balance -- for example, only buying 70% of the principal balance, or does this also depend on the scenario?

Let's say you can find a lender to do 90% CLTV (might be possible with owner occupied).0.9 x 270K = 243KSo 243K is the total loan balance you would be permitted; subtract the principal balance of your primary loan from that 243K and you'll get your potential equity amount.Don't know about seasoning ...

By P&I, Jon meant Principal & Interest, so yes you will have that if you're putting 20% down.

Then negotiate with the city on tax bill (maybe offer to pay principal?)