I've had multiple professional people look at it and they say it's working but if possible I can install a separate thermostat in each unit to help regulate the heat per unit. 

I am not planning on replacing it until it goes, all asbestos gone, replaced iwht expensive fg pipe insulation and I made a 1" ins. blanket for the boiler. uses around 2k gallons per year (less actually, 1,734 over past year) -- ONE thermostat, which allows for one cycle per hour and is programmable - no one touches it and it keeps the building pretty comfy--no complaints except 3rd floor when system needs to have H20 added, or bled.

Either on purpose, by pulling the lever on the vent, or accidentally, by blocking them with furniture, rugs, etc.Some people think that if the house is too cool, the way to fix it is to not touch the thermostat and close some vents.I use the pleated paper filters that cost about $1.50 each, but I do have a newer system at my rent house - the furnace and A/C are both about 3 years old.

This is with each area having a separate thermostat.

Some inspectors will look at a furnace, for example, and just look for visual damage, turn the thermostat to make sure it's heating, etc., but that's about it.

When I went to look at the unit, the thermostat was set on 68, so it was set reasonably.

I had my inspection today, the report details that the inspector could not get the heating system to turn on via the thermostat .

Hi Joe,A gas/lLP forced air furnace would be my first choice for a SFH (but always an electric water heater if given a choice).Set it and forget it with a thermostat that kicks between A/C and Heat automatically (no need to switch over from one to the other).When there is snow on the ground (to me) heat pumps are not cozy warm enough.Just my 2 cents.

Home staging, furnishing, included beach toys/boards, smart locks/lights/thermostat are a worthy investment and will push it into the high margin zone.

And I control that with wireless thermostats.