So anytime any work had to be done to plumping, run phone/cable lines etc. the ceiling had to be damaged to gain access to the mechanical's of the house.Also, it was carpeted and about once a year in the spring moisture would seep into the basement and I would have to be diligent to get it dried up or otherwise it would cause mildew/moisture issues.

Have your contractor rip out the rotting window trim and install PVC trim instead. its paintable and will resist future moisture.

If you are using a Tramex Moisture Meter and the level is 0%-2%, no moisture barrier is required.

We try to get a legal co-signer and an extra deposit, since we can't do as rigorous screening without a SSN.One other thing we have found is keeping up with maintenance inspection and keeping up with moisture/mildew/mold issues. 

Something that size would usually sag and crack before it gave way, and there's usually a moisture-related reason why it would sag and crack.Some people on this site have never seen an act of God they couldn't find a way to at least try to pin on their tenants.

I think with the subsidies and if you have good exposure, I see no reason why not to do it.I'd just make sure:1) It's professionally installed since poking holes in the roof not good2) See if you can get some kind of workmanship warranty in case you do get moisture invasion3) Find out what gets recorded against title.  

As mentioned, the freeze/thaw cycle combined with moisture can be a problem with it on the front range of CO.  

I would also take a moisture meter around the rooms in possible spots of spraying or missing the litter box etc.

Provide paid invoices with dates to prove the moisture intrusion and related repairs had taken been completed well within the 30 day mold remediation period.Provide copies of all tenant emails related to their claims.

By caulking the base, WHEN there is a wax ring leak, the moisture will sit on your subfloor, which is exactly what rots them to begin with.