The rest of your questions:In terms of value add...work to harden the house for future tenancy.  

If any wood is squishy, apply wood hardener.

However, some inspectors are quite "thorough" and there have been many stories from landlords about a unit failing because of a pulled thread in a carpet being a "trip hazard" or a range with dirty drip pans being a fire hazard.Keep in mind that some Section 8 tenants can be quite rough on a rental property and landlords will attempt to "harden" these.  

Not worth dealing with enforcing a no-pets policy IMO so we just allow them, harden our units accordingly, and charge extra pet rent along with 1.5x monthly rent as a security deposit.

Ive listed my top 5 deterrents above but would love to hear from some of you with properties in hardened/ busy urban areas. 

Speaking to the hardened vets out there, have you actually held onto your rentals for 30+ years?  

Hi Max,(((($30)))) an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.You should have hardened both units washers for a total of $60.You didn't, so it seems to me charging the resident for this is not best/right.And under the kitchen sink you can Harden the area by using a scrap of linoleum type vinyl flooring.Cut it so it goes up the back wall to the drain and down to the doors in the front.

@Victor ChanSell if:You don't want to be a bay area landlordFinishes are new and the house does not have hardened features appropriate for rentingHold if:You want to be a bay area landlordHouse has older finishes and value wouldn't suffer from additional wear and tear.The amount of risk you take on by renting would be significant and under no circumstances should you hold long enough to lose your step up in basis.

At least they were a relatively inexpensive wake-up call and I hardened up my procedures big time after that. 

Do you have a sufficiently hardened contract that I can use or know where I can get one?