You can absolutely bet you will hit a bad patch of vacancy and or repairs.

If it stays when she leaves then fine I can at worst remove the sensors and patch any small holes, at best maybe I can have the system transferred to a new tenant should they want it.

Here is the description of work.tenant has moved out, please change locks and get make ready estimate We have a estimate that come in at 5743.67 and included material and labor Replace lock and secured unit Remove garbage leftover in the unit by prior tenant Remove nail and decal from wall and ceiling Prep , patch, and finish large hole in the living room , stairs case and bedroom walls Prep and paint entire unit Remove and replace damage and stained carpet on the living room, dining room, 3 bedrooms , hallway and stairs tread Replace broken outlet,switch and plate cover install missing carbon monoxide and smoker detector Repair kitchen cabinet clean entire unit Note: this estimate those not include a C/O ,section 8 or lead swipe and all unforeseen , alteration and deviation from above specifications involving extra costs will be executed only upon written orders, and will become an extra charge.

So, I need some advice on how to cut some on this project; here is the budget...............Demo- $2800Roof- $4800 (fix roof on addition and raise roof in kitchen)Gutters- $1200 (replace gutters)Siding- $3500 (replace with new siding)Exterior Doors- $1800 (replace 3 doors)Shutters- $600 (add to front windows)Exterior paint- $1500 (paint cinder block, trim, porch, columns, shed, etc)Landscaping- $700Windows- $3000 (replace all windows{14} except 3)Walls- $2500 (open up 2 walls from living room, dining room and kitchen)Drywall- $4500 (replace all ceilings, repair and patch as needed)Rough Electrical- $4800 (bring up to code, install new outlets, GFCI and ARC fault breakers, move electrical in basement to free up ceiling space)Finish Electrical- $1600 (replace all receptables, outlet covers, switches, switch covers, light fixtures, and ceiling fans)Rough Plumbing- $3500 (replace water heater, relocate/replace plumbing to free up basement ceiling space)Finish Plumbing- $700HVAC Rough- $4500 (Replace oil heating furnace and add AC unit)HVAC Finish- $400 (replace covers)Ductwork- $2500 (add new ductwork, registers, and grills)Kitchen- $10,000 (add bar style pennisula with cabinets, replace all cabinets, add grade A granite, create pantry, replace flooring, glass backsplash, new appliances)Bathroom #1- $3500 (bathroom #1 remodel)Bathroom #2- $4500 (basement bathroom creation with injector pump)Interior Paint- $2200Interior Doors- $600 (replace all with 6 panel)Baseboards- $3500 (replace all baseboards)Flooring- $4500 (replace with new hardwood)Carpet- $600 (in basement family room and bedroom)Finish Basement- $7500 (framing, insulation, drywall, trim, etc.)Leveling Basement Flooring- $5300 (tear up concrete and relevel)This is an older house with older doors, molding, finishes, etc.; nothing really has been updated.

Any experience with "restore".Specifically concerned about some mixed reviews:seems to get 5star or 1star depending on if it peels a year later.Looking to paint steps that have a bunch of little cracks and damage from being covered in outdoor carpet.Also looking to facelift a patio area with patched (previously cracked) cement.I generally like to make thinks look nice, but need to go with the clean/paint ratger than replace motto so I can save $$.

(assuming the repairs, texture, and paint are all done by the same crew)Repairs like 1) drywall patches + texturing, 2) repairing cracks and drywall joints + texturing, 3) scraping off bad, flaky paint, 4) washing and/or degreasing surfaces that need it, 5) filling holes or divots, and 6) even trimming back any plants or tree limbs touching the house area to be painted?

If it's drywall/plaster construction and the wall cavity is open at the top (and accessible from the attic), you could fill the void with cellulose insulation (such as Green Fiber - available at any Lowe's or Home Depot) from above.Even if it's not accessible from the attic, you could easily cut a small opening near the top of the wall (maybe a few depending on the span and the stud spacing), fill it up with insulation, and then patch & paint the hole(s) you made. 

And its cheaper.It can be patched with many products, including most self-leveling compounds.

Hi Patrick,I would STRONGLY advise you to have the floors patched or toothed in, as others have said.

Here they would be the latter.Those planks have little insulation value themselves (my reference chart indicates the R-value of wood ranges from 1.2 to about 2.5 per inch depending on the type of wood and how dry it is), but they will help hold blown insulation in the wall cavities and you will not have to apply screening or patch drywall (or even plug the holes you will drill in the planks).