Next step is waterproofing the foundation (spraying a tar-like substance on the concrete and laying a foundation drain around the perimeter of the structure), and then it's on to framing.

Since we have owned it, and even prior to that, there have been 2 lots inside its perimeter owned by 2 different people.

(an upgrade from the 3-tab shingles)  IF the slope is only 4/12 or 5/12, then yes use the 3-tab ones, as they will shed water off the roof on lower slopes than the dim sh's will.IF you are in a snow laden area, then you MUST include using ice/water barrier around the perimeter lines as well.

Small multifamily deals that lie outside of the perimeter are often in B-/C+ class subdivisions.

Like Chris says, growth moving north as there's fierce competition inside the perimeter, and just north of the perimeter (in Cobb, Cherokee).

We have to have them on 8/point foundations ($8000) or full perimeter foundations (15-$20,000)to get them financed, most already have 8/point foundation in place, or I have it put in.The median home price in our area is $490k and climbing rapidly.

I hope to find a few "lady vets" who want to start farming, but know how to secure and protect perimeters. 

I haven't seen the foundation yet, I am assuming the piers are similar to the mid span piers of a crawl space, but there isn't a perimeter wall.

Hi experts,I purchased a home to flip in Lennox Ca 300 Sq Ft and there is NO perimeter foundation wall.  

Also, by not raising the perimeter, you should not create more issues with the brick, assuming it is properly tied to the framing.