All Forum Posts by: Shaun C.

@Roy N.

I get your response. Mine was more in order to lighten the burden of the cost of this project...If you are just drilling a hole, you aren't opening up the cavity. Thereby sidestepping the requirements to bring it up to current code while fulfilling the original problem which is the sound isolation from the adjoining unit. 

To the OP; as always, call your building inspector and make sure you are conforming to local codes regarding fire stops/party walls, but with a project like this; I most likely wouldn't be calling anybody if the problem was only sound from one unit to another.

I think you are confused. If the current situation passes code, why not drill into the top of the stud cavity, fill with cellulose, then cover with 5/8 drywall with (every expert's favorite) green glue in between? This would most definitely pass inspection where I'm from. 

Decoupling is great but that needs to be done during new construction otherwise it's too expensive for the benefit over what I described above. 

Are you saying type - x fire rated drywall won't satisfy your local code? 

No matter what you do I would do two layers of 5/8" gyp board on the wall you are redoing with green glue in between.

The easiest (and cheapest) way if the wall is intact now is to drill holes at the top of the walls, blow in cellulose, then add another layer of gyp as described above.

I was told by my lawyer in MI that it's not a good idea to try an deduct from the SD for cleaning charges and go to court so here is what I do instead. I have in the lease that I charge a $200 cleaning fee at lease termination. I tell them that as long as the apt is in the condition I gave it to them in, that I don't have to come in and clean, and that they were respectful during their tenancy, I will not charge this fee.

Make sure to look up the triple leaf effect and make sure you aren't making your situation worse--sorry I didn't read through the entire thread but did read some and you might want to read up.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/sites/default/files/Understanding_theTriple_Leaf_Effect.pdf

@Miko Lee I would recommend setting out to create the perfect lease that covers all your bases asap. I'm not sure if you are a beginner or not but my thought process was always that if this evolved into a sustainable business venture for myself, it would only solve or prevent problems from occurring the sooner I created a 'bulletproof' lease.

Start gathering clauses from other landlord's leases and compile them into a well thought out list and take them to a local realtor that also actively invests in real estate. Your time and money will only save you from headaches and lawsuits in the future.

If the current tenants lease is expired, make sure the new lease explains that there is no parking. Make sure the lease for the new tenants does say they have rights to one (or both) of the spaces in the garage.

I'm not sure about your layout for driveway, garage, and lawn, but if there is space to the side of the garage; you can probably have a new pad poured for $5-800 and charge a little more for it.

Have you tried an ozone machine? Buy one big enough to shock treat the unit and make sure to have fans circulating the air and no one in the unit during those times. I used to run a detailing business and we used this all the time and it worked great.

If your only option is to go from above, I think I would drill holes in the subfloor between the joist cavities every 8-12 ft, stick in the hose from the blown in cellulose machine that you get for free from HD after buying 10 bags, and then come back with 1/4 plywood over it. Do yourself a favor and purchase the Ridgid collated screw gun and special sub floor screws. It is $125 for everything and you will have the entire sub floor done in a few hours if you are planning on tackling this yourself. This will not only make your life easier, but also hopefully get rid of any squeaks the floor currently has.

IF, in the future you wanted to take it to the next level, you could install 5/8" drywall downstairs with green glue to mitigate sound transmission. I also have a top/down duplex and this appears to be the most cost efficient way of reducing sound between units. This is what I will be doing when I replace the carpet upstairs in a few years.