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All Forum Posts by: Shane Sams

Shane Sams has started 8 posts and replied 21 times.

Originally posted by @Brian Adzadi:

Shane,

There are a few things I saw on the report that I think you should ask for seller assist so you can fix it yourself (Never ask seller to fix anything, they are trying to keep as much profit as possible, so they are inclined to do half-*** jobs) or ask for 2-3K reduction in price. I am surprised this is a flip and has these issues still. Here they are:

1. Front porch, large crack, caulk or fill. (When I bought my SFR, my insurance required to fix a crack on the steps before it gets insured, it cost me $500).

2. Main Water shut off not located on  the meter. (Why would the main water shut not be present? If there was a major water leak, how do stop the water from flowing?).

3. Panel box, 2 hot wire attached to one breaker, fire hazard. (Anything that is going to be a safety hazard or fire hazard, I feel, needs to be immediately fixed, its an investment, protect your investment).

4. Outlet above sink won't trip. (Goes back to # 3).

 I caught this deal off market right before they finished the flip.  They were about 90% done.  They had already put in new flooring and paint and all that.  But there are still a couple things to do.  I need a door in one bedroom and appliances for the kitchen.  I'm going to have a plumber come in and check out all the pipes and toilets, caulk the bathroom.  And I got my guy that can handle the electric stuff.

Awesome actionable advice Brian.  Great stuff.  I love the advice about fixing it ourselves.  I'd thought that too.  They just want to get you to the sell, so its better to just take it on.  I think that advice will serve me well in future deals.  

Did you fill the crack with concrete?  Is that why it was so expensive?

I'll check on the main water shutoff for sure.  I think there was one in the basement if I remember correctly.

Panel box I'll fix ASAP before I put anyone in it.  Same for outlets.

Thank you so much for the input!  I appreciate it so much!

Originally posted by @Sam Shueh:

Focus on page 19 do what you can.  The form is what we used in west coast decades ago. These days all images are there from a drop box to allow users to interact with write up.  I have no clue on insulation, windows, fire alarm, CO detector, fire retardant door thickness. In our area, an inspector identify the roof life, flashing, chimney, flue etc. Attic insulation thickness(R value), window condition. Gutter maintenance. Kitchen sink leak, garbage disposal? dish washer cycling is all I can get out his penmanship. He said nothing about toilets, water damage below the home and flooring conditions. These are big ticket items.

Try to figure out the total repair and work on the important deficiencies.

Awesome advice Sam.  Thank you for the input. 

I was at the inspections.  Floors looked good.  The water in the basement happened while we were there.  It was bone dry.  But when we turned on the water on the kitchen sink they had not hooked it up right, the pipe was loose and water got all over the floor and ran down into the basement through the drain lol.  So it was a one time correctable event.

I'll ask about the gutters, didn't see anything on those.  Thanks again man.

Originally posted by @Account Closed:

it looks like there is less then a$1000 of minor repairs Why was the water heater not on? Give the whole report to the seller and see what they will fix 

I think because they had the vent installed wrong.  Part of it was slightly moving down, so it wasn't vented right?

I'll pass that on though and ask.  Thanks for the feedback Steven.  I appreciate you.

Hey everyone!  I'm buying my first deal.   Just got the inspection.

Would love some help looking for anything that may be a red flag.

The house is a 3x1 single family built in 1970.  It's was recently flipped and I'm buying it for $66,000 post flip.  I should be able to get around $800 rent for it.  I'm putting 25% down and my rate on the loan is 4.5%.   It passes the 50% rule, and It's on a pretty big lot.  May have room to build something else on it later.

Here is the home inspection:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9xo5LHfwd6GcnRvR...

Roof and structure look good.  The big stuff seems OK.

There are a couple minor things that stand out to me:

The hot water tank ventilation is wrong and needs adjusted, minor fix.  

Kitchen sink leaked when tested, but it's all in the pipes and just needs put together correctly.

The electrical isn't great: some ungrounded outlets and a double tap in the box.  Thoughts on this?


What else am I missing?  I've bought a few houses I've lived in, but I know I'm no expert at this stuff and would appreciate a more experienced set of eyes to glance over this for me.

Thanks y'all!

Post: When are you too over levaged?

Shane SamsPosted
  • Corbin, KY
  • Posts 21
  • Votes 7
Originally posted by @Austin Fruechting:
Originally posted by @Shane Sams:
Originally posted by @Justin Fox:

@Shane Sams

I would include your tax/insurance monthly premium/cost in that 6 month reserve (in addition to the mortgage payment) for the leveraged property.

For the second one, I would just have at least 6 months of the taxes and insurance because there is no mortgage.

 Good stuff on that.  Makes sense.  The goal is emergency fund to survive a downturn or no renter.  So just make sure you can pay the taxes and insurance and worst case fix stuff later.  Am I thinking right?

Carrying costs are certainly something to consider, but probably the smaller portion of what you need reserves for. If your tenant moves out and it needs all new flooring, repainted, and other updates how much does that cost? You need at least that plus the carrying costs for the time it takes to do the work and hold until you get a new tenant in. What if the HVAC goes out around that time too? Or any number of other things. 

Just using a certain amount of months of carrying costs doesn't make for a great calculation of a cash reserve (just as you shouldn't plug in a % of rent for repairs/capex). What if it's a property you got at a steal so your mortgage is low? Or paid off? Say your monthly carry costs are $500 or less. Is 12 months of that ($6k) a good reserve? Of course not! That HVAC is going to cost you $4-5k wether your carrying costs are $500 or $1500. If you have other repairs and vacancy there your "12 months of reserves" doesn't get the work done and you're sunk.  

Let's say a long term tenant moves out. It sits vacant for 3 months to complete work and get a new tenant. Carry costs $500 a month x 12 = $6k reserve. New flooring; $3000.. paint whole house; $2000.. HVAC: $5000.. Miscellaneous repairs; $1000.. small bathroom update; $1000.. TOTAL WORK: $12,000.. carry costs; $1500.. Total: $13,500.... your 12 months of carry costs don't even cover half of it.

The carrying costs is only one part of the equation for your cash reserve needs. 

 I like the worst case scenario there haha. 

I may just drop 10K / rental in an account.  Keep that cash out.  

Buy a house, put 10k in an account...

Buy 10 = 100k in reserves.  Problem solved.

Post: When are you too over levaged?

Shane SamsPosted
  • Corbin, KY
  • Posts 21
  • Votes 7
Originally posted by @Justin Fox:

@Shane Sams

I would include your tax/insurance monthly premium/cost in that 6 month reserve (in addition to the mortgage payment) for the leveraged property.

For the second one, I would just have at least 6 months of the taxes and insurance because there is no mortgage.

 Good stuff on that.  Makes sense.  The goal is emergency fund to survive a downturn or no renter.  So just make sure you can pay the taxes and insurance and worst case fix stuff later.  Am I thinking right?

Post: Best Real Estate Investor Conferences

Shane SamsPosted
  • Corbin, KY
  • Posts 21
  • Votes 7
Planning travel and learning for 2018. Thought I’d throw a REI conference in the mix. What are the best you have been to?

Post: When are you too over levaged?

Shane SamsPosted
  • Corbin, KY
  • Posts 21
  • Votes 7
Originally posted by @Justin Fox:

@Brandon Duff

At least 6 months of PITI. One year if possible.

Justin, so I'm just starting out.  

I own an 1800 sq. ft. 3x2 rental outright and get 950 a month for it.  It's paid off.


I just bought another 3x1 1100 square foot.  My payment on it is going to be 358.93.


So are you saying I should have

358.93 x 6 = $2153.58 

in reserve for the 3x1?

What about for a house you own outright?  

So maybe use the 50% rule?

so 950 * 50% = 475 * 6 = $2850?


I'm pretty conservative and want to have plenty of cash for emergencies or for when times go bad / turn tough.

Thoughts?

I could totally double that too and put it in a "don't break glass unless emergency" fund lol.

Post: Making offers: when to lowball someone?

Shane SamsPosted
  • Corbin, KY
  • Posts 21
  • Votes 7

So, when do you do something crazy like offer 50% for a property?  Or offer way below market value?

Do you do it just to kick off a negotiation?  Do you do it when you feel like the property is way overlisted?

What about when you know they have a ton of equity or have the property paid off and can take almost anything?


Also, how do you feel about lowballing people in general?  Is it a strategy that has its place?  Does it hurt your reputation as an investor, or set you up as a hard negotiator?

Would love to hear any tips, tricks, or lessons learned on starting out LOW!

Post: I just made my first DEAL!!! Woo hoo!!!

Shane SamsPosted
  • Corbin, KY
  • Posts 21
  • Votes 7
Looking at another one today LOL.  Two duplexes haha.

Originally posted by @Alex Verdugo:

congrats. Hopefully it's the first of many.