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All Forum Posts by: Derek Brickley

Derek Brickley has started 4 posts and replied 420 times.

Post: Do Lenders Prefer a Borrower Has Real Estate Portfolio When Lending On Real Estate?

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

Every lender is going to probably have a different opinion on this.  If you are using conventional financing for future acquisitions, then it makes no difference at all.  If anything, not having other properties may help streamline the financing process especially for conventional lenders not experienced working with investors.  On the other hand, if you are looking to use some form of commercial financing or a Debt-Service loan, other properties do increase your desirability.  It's definitely a tradeoff, but in our residential world it doesn't make a big difference at all.

Post: New investor, looking to build my credit

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175
Quote from @Ryan Tongue:
Quote from @Derek Brickley:
Quote from @Ryan Tongue:
Quote from @Derek Brickley:

Hey Ryan!  It's awesome you're thinking about this now.  There are a few steps you can take (I did these steps before graduating and buying my first househack):

- If someone you know has an excellent credit history, you can ask them to add you as an authorized user to their account.  This will help you "inherit" their good credit and age of account.  Note that if they have poor history or if a payment is missed, it would reflect on you as well.

- If you don't think you would be buying in the next few months, opening another line of credit may be a good option.  Typically the hard inquiry from those will only last a few months, and entirely drop off your credit after 2 years.  

- You could also look into sites like Experian Boost that would report things you may currently pay (phone bill, utilities, streaming services) and that could also help there.

With your situation, even though you may have perfect payment history it is difficult to start because you don't have a large mix of accounts (credit cards, auto loans, mortgages, etc.) and the average length of accounts is small.  An important note with your current card (or any others you may get) the magic number for utilization rate seems to float around 9%.  So for example, if you have a credit line of $1,000, research would suggest that the optimal balance on that account for improving credit would be $90 or less.  Make sure that there is a balance on the account every month though, as having $0 does not help you improve your payment history or utilization.  Keep the balances low, and then pay the previous month's statement balance in full to prevent paying extremely high interest rates.

No affiliation or anything, but as a student I started with the Discover IT Cashback card.  This was a great first card and was not difficult to qualify for.  My next card I got while a student was the Chase Freedom Unlimited and gives 1.5% cashback with no annual fee, and getting Chase cards early on helps you avoid their 5/24 rule.

This is a lot but if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!

Hi Derek! I really appreciate the detailed response.I have a number of follow-up questions for you if you wouldn't mind answering them. I'll try to break them up:

- I'm already an authorized user on an account with exceptional credit. That being said, when I applied for a conventional loan 6 months ago I ran into an issue I'd love clarification on. Essentially, while my credit was in good shape, the lender still refused the loan based on the fact that the majority of my credit score could be attributed to the account that I'm an authorized user on. This has left me confused, as I'm now not sure whether being an authorized user on an account is a good or bad thing, or if it's situational. 

- I think there's a chance I buy within the next 2 months, however unlikely. How would opening another line of credit now affect my ability to do that? It would be great if you could expand on hard inquiry as mentioned in your second bullet point. If you could even tell me what to search for so I can find out more myself that would be great. 

- I currently have a Chase Freedom Flex that I use to pay for groceries, gas, utilities. I expect I utilize anywhere from 10-30% of my credit limit each month. Based on your suggestion to keep my usage down to the "magic number" of 9%, should I instead use debit on gas/groceries once I've hit 9% of my credit limit for the month?

Thanks again for responding to my previous post. If you're able to respond to this post too that would be super helpful.

Ryan
Yes happy to help!  Starting with the top
- if you don’t mind me asking, what lender told you that about your authorized user account?  When it comes down to it, that really wouldn’t matter.  We have never had an issue with that before
- if you may consider buying in the next couple of months, I would encourage you to hold off on opening new lines of credit.  There is no hard and fast rule, but generally speaking the hard pull from a new account (mortgage, auto loan, credit card, etc.) will only temporarily impact your score (maybe 3 months) and will drop off entirely in 2 years.  That said another impact of opening a new lines now would be your ‘average age of accounts’.  When you open a new line of credit, your average age of accounts will decrease and that will also have a temporary negative impact on your score.  

 - for the utilization rate, I’ll give my habit as an example for this.  Say your credit line is $1,000.  With the 9% guideline we want the balance that reports to be under $90.  Now that doesn’t mean you can only spend $90, I might spend hundreds on the card over the course of the month to maximize credit card rewards.  For me, my statement/closing date is the 18th of the month.  So I can spend as much of my line as I want, but I just need to pay my balance down to below the $90 so that when the 18th rolls around the current balance is all that will be reported to the credit bureaus.  So the key here would be to figure out what your statement date is and to pay down your balance below that 9% before then.  Then after the statement date pay whatever the remaining balance was in full.

Thanks again, Derek. 

- While I won't share the name of the lender, this is the exact message I received:

"Like I mentioned, you both have great credit scores (750 + ) and income. The issue is that your credit accounts are compiled mainly of Authorized User accounts. I will attach the Fannie Mae rule below, but the guidelines state that if more than %50 of your credit histories are Authorized User accounts, we either need to have the owners of the accounts co-sign on the loan, or prove that you are the one making the payments on the account"

I'm curious if this changes your opinion on whether I should stay an authorized user.

- I just want to make sure I'm understanding utilization rate correctly. Essentially you're saying that if my credit limit is $1000, I just need my balance to be at or below $90 on my closing date (which is different from my due date, at which time my balance should be paid in full no matter what) ? Outside of my closing date, it's okay to have a balance greater than 9% of my credit limit?


 Everything you said on utilization is correct!  Should be paid in full on due date, 9% utilization on closing date, and other than that it doesn’t matter for your score.  

How many authorized user account are you on currently?  And how many other accounts do you have?

Post: Dscr Loans And Prepayment Penalty

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

Hey Megha!  As others have mentioned it is a trade off.  In the current market we are doing majority with no prepayment penalties since there may be an opportunity to refinance if/when rates comes down.  But also weigh the alternative of how costly the prepayment penalty is.  We are handling one now where the prepayment penalty will be $750, and it was a nobrainer since he is getting better terms.  

Post: Carpet or Vinyl flooring

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

Strong advocate for LVP.  Find one with an underlayer attached, and if noise is an issue put a sound suppression pad underneath. Depending on the unevenness of the floor, a little liquid floor leveler may do the trick.  Waterproof, wear resistant, and would argue that it just looks better. 

Post: fha and conventional loans

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

Hi Zachary!  Those on their own would not disqualify you.  If you have questions about what you could possibly get approved for, feel free to reach out and would be happy to look at some options.

Post: My friend is wondering if he can use a personal loan to cover an EMD.

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

From the financing side of things, it gets a little tricky. Although there is nothing stopping you from doing that to cover your EMD, we would not be able to apply that EMD towards the purchase. We would end up "backing" those funds out of the transaction as if it never existed since it isn't secured funds. So you would need to come up with the funds at some point anyway if you are using financing. At that point, there isn't really a benefit of doing so.

Post: New investor, looking to build my credit

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175
Quote from @Ryan Tongue:
Quote from @Derek Brickley:

Hey Ryan!  It's awesome you're thinking about this now.  There are a few steps you can take (I did these steps before graduating and buying my first househack):

- If someone you know has an excellent credit history, you can ask them to add you as an authorized user to their account.  This will help you "inherit" their good credit and age of account.  Note that if they have poor history or if a payment is missed, it would reflect on you as well.

- If you don't think you would be buying in the next few months, opening another line of credit may be a good option.  Typically the hard inquiry from those will only last a few months, and entirely drop off your credit after 2 years.  

- You could also look into sites like Experian Boost that would report things you may currently pay (phone bill, utilities, streaming services) and that could also help there.

With your situation, even though you may have perfect payment history it is difficult to start because you don't have a large mix of accounts (credit cards, auto loans, mortgages, etc.) and the average length of accounts is small.  An important note with your current card (or any others you may get) the magic number for utilization rate seems to float around 9%.  So for example, if you have a credit line of $1,000, research would suggest that the optimal balance on that account for improving credit would be $90 or less.  Make sure that there is a balance on the account every month though, as having $0 does not help you improve your payment history or utilization.  Keep the balances low, and then pay the previous month's statement balance in full to prevent paying extremely high interest rates.

No affiliation or anything, but as a student I started with the Discover IT Cashback card.  This was a great first card and was not difficult to qualify for.  My next card I got while a student was the Chase Freedom Unlimited and gives 1.5% cashback with no annual fee, and getting Chase cards early on helps you avoid their 5/24 rule.

This is a lot but if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!

Hi Derek! I really appreciate the detailed response.I have a number of follow-up questions for you if you wouldn't mind answering them. I'll try to break them up:

- I'm already an authorized user on an account with exceptional credit. That being said, when I applied for a conventional loan 6 months ago I ran into an issue I'd love clarification on. Essentially, while my credit was in good shape, the lender still refused the loan based on the fact that the majority of my credit score could be attributed to the account that I'm an authorized user on. This has left me confused, as I'm now not sure whether being an authorized user on an account is a good or bad thing, or if it's situational. 

- I think there's a chance I buy within the next 2 months, however unlikely. How would opening another line of credit now affect my ability to do that? It would be great if you could expand on hard inquiry as mentioned in your second bullet point. If you could even tell me what to search for so I can find out more myself that would be great. 

- I currently have a Chase Freedom Flex that I use to pay for groceries, gas, utilities. I expect I utilize anywhere from 10-30% of my credit limit each month. Based on your suggestion to keep my usage down to the "magic number" of 9%, should I instead use debit on gas/groceries once I've hit 9% of my credit limit for the month?

Thanks again for responding to my previous post. If you're able to respond to this post too that would be super helpful.

Ryan
Yes happy to help!  Starting with the top
- if you don’t mind me asking, what lender told you that about your authorized user account?  When it comes down to it, that really wouldn’t matter.  We have never had an issue with that before
- if you may consider buying in the next couple of months, I would encourage you to hold off on opening new lines of credit.  There is no hard and fast rule, but generally speaking the hard pull from a new account (mortgage, auto loan, credit card, etc.) will only temporarily impact your score (maybe 3 months) and will drop off entirely in 2 years.  That said another impact of opening a new lines now would be your ‘average age of accounts’.  When you open a new line of credit, your average age of accounts will decrease and that will also have a temporary negative impact on your score.  

 - for the utilization rate, I’ll give my habit as an example for this.  Say your credit line is $1,000.  With the 9% guideline we want the balance that reports to be under $90.  Now that doesn’t mean you can only spend $90, I might spend hundreds on the card over the course of the month to maximize credit card rewards.  For me, my statement/closing date is the 18th of the month.  So I can spend as much of my line as I want, but I just need to pay my balance down to below the $90 so that when the 18th rolls around the current balance is all that will be reported to the credit bureaus.  So the key here would be to figure out what your statement date is and to pay down your balance below that 9% before then.  Then after the statement date pay whatever the remaining balance was in full.

Post: Newish Investor - DSCR loan options for a house hack duplex in San Antonio

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

Totally agree with what has already been said. There is a lot of flexibility with the non-QM realm so DSCR can be tailored to work with your goals/situation in most cases! Different lenders will have different guidelines and programs so I'd encourage you to look around

Post: Refinancing with hight DTI

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175

Already has been said, but a DSCR cash-out refinance would be the least hassle for sure. With your primary, you could potentially do a cash-out if there is enough equity and the lender would be able to have debts paid at closing to reduce your DTI.

Post: Does my type of income qualify me for a conventional loan?(Bank statements loan?)

Derek Brickley
Lender
Pro Member
Posted
  • Lender
  • Ann Arbor, MI
  • Posts 435
  • Votes 175
Quote from @Faiz Kanash:
Quote from @Derek Brickley:

Hi Faiz!  So then are you possibly looking to buy a primary residence or an investment property?  Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like the deposits are from your flipping business?  Whether this income would qualify you or not would largely depend on how much you claim on your taxes and for how many years.  A safe, generic guideline is to average your taxable income for the past 2 years.  Bank statement loans of course would look at the total deposits into your account and use a percentage of that as income.  Hope that helps, but definitely depends on your situation and what exactly you might be looking for!


 Essentially both, yes! Either use it to purchase a primary residence, or purchase a multi-family property and live in one of the units while renting out the rest(preferably the second option). And yes, my deposits are primarily from my flipping business.

I'm just overall unsure whether or not I'd even qualify for FHA/conventional due to the fact that my income isn't monthly.

Got it!  Nope the fact that it's not monthly does not in and of itself disqualify you.  Would be happy to connect and learn more about your situation though to see if we might be able to help!