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All Forum Posts by: James Zettelmeyer

James Zettelmeyer has started 7 posts and replied 28 times.

Hey Sylvia!  Sorry to hear about this but yes, the correct move here is to walk away.  $500 lost is a win when it comes to this situation.  Being an out of state investor is much harder in that you have to be extremely careful until you can build a team of people (agent, inspector, contractors, etc) that are in your corner and can give you an honest assessment of a property since you are not there to do it yourself.  So trust in those people is huge.  That being said, my advise would be to avoid houses that don't have detailed photos and listing information as there's usually a reason they didn't provide any in the first place.  This at least allows you to get a decent look and if the property looks ok, then I would have your agent do a walk through either on their own or with you on the phone or possibly via facetime/zoom so you can see it in more detail.  Have them look at the water tank and furnace and see how old they are, look at the electric panel and just verify its not Federal Pacific, see if the basement is dry, how does the siding, windows, roof, porch all look, is the garage falling over, etc etc.  The agent doesnt have to be an expert, but an experienced one can tell you if the house looks maintained or not.  That being said, obviously you dont want to be sending your agent to every house you see, so try to limit that to houses that really seem to line up with your gameplan, meaning the rents and resulting cash flow look good, property looks good in the pictures, and a quick tour of the area via google street view shows a clean neighborhood.  If it passes that basic test first, then send your agent for a tour and if the house checks all the boxes at that point and the numbers line up, then submit an offer and go from there.  

Post: First Multifamily Property Financing

James ZettelmeyerPosted
  • Akron, OH
  • Posts 32
  • Votes 12

Hey James! Congrats on the move towards your first investment! House hacking is a great tool if you are ok with moving every year or so, which means you would want to live lightly (not a lot of furniture, basic necessities so that its easy to move and not a huge ordeal) during that process. But if you plan on staying in your current house, then yes I would also recommend a HELOC if you can find one with a decent rate at your local bank. Gives you the most flexibility with the lowest payment as they are usually interest only payments. If you're flipping houses, then you just pay off the HELOC balance once you've sold the property. If you're holding the property, then once its up and running you can do a cash out refi into a long term loan and then pay the HELOC off. Bear in mind that both DSCR and conventional lending have seasoning guidelines when it comes to cash out refinances. For conventional you can pull cash out within the first 6 months of acquisition, but you can only pull out the amount that you used to purchase the property, nothing more. So if you paid say, $100k for it and put an additional $50k into it after the fact, you would have to wait 6 months before you could pull out funds beyond what was used to purchase. DSCR loans have similar guidelines but they very depending on the lender. So you just have to plan accordingly. Good luck!

You're right on that, my apologies.  Thanks!

Originally posted by @Peter Stewart:

@James Zettelmeyer Everything I have read states 120 days for the appraisal, not 180. Not trying to argue, just trying to get some clarification.  I know these rules change all the time so I want to make sure we all have the most up to date and accurate info.

This is one of many places I've seen the 120 days referenced:

https://www.fhanewsblog.com/2018/02/fha-appraisal-...

That is correct with FHA, the appraisal stays with the house for 6 months, so if this deal falls through and you get another FHA buyer, then that appraisal transfers to them. If you get a conventional buyer next time around, then a new appraisal will be done. I agree with Alex in that appraisal appeals are almost impossible as these appraisers are protected by third party Appraisal Management Companies that came with Dodd/Frank in 2010, meaning the appraisers are randomly assigned and cannot have contact with the borrowers. Since they are now protected, they have no reason to make any changes especially since its their license on the line if anything happens. The only thing you might be able to argue are the comps if he's using 2 BR's in all of his comps instead of 3 BR's. In order to count a room as a bedroom on an FHA appraisal, I believe it has to have heat and have its own entrance, meaning if you have one bedroom that's connected to a hallway, and on the other side of that bedroom was an attic that you made into a bedroom, you would have to walk through one bedroom to get to the other and I don't believe this is allowed. However, if the attic is accessible on its own and is set up for heat, then it should be able to be counted as a 3rd bedroom. Good luck!

On FHA, you can do what's called a "non-occupying co-borrower", meaning the co-borrower is not occupying the property as their primary residence. Therefore, your partner would have to be the main borrower and you would be the non-occupying co-borrower. As long as your partner has good enough credit and documentable income, and assuming that together, you both can qualify for the loan, then it is possible to purchase the house this way and basically house hack. Additionally, if your partner has $0 funds and you have 100% of the funds that would be used to purchase the home, you can use your funds as well and not have to count them as a gift, so long as they are in your account and fully seasoned by the time you buy the property.

As far as the 203k itself goes, they are a great product, however they can be a nightmare if you don't have all your ducks lined up. The most important thing you need to do is call around now and find a general contractor that you like and trust, and more importantly, is willing to work with you on a 203k and is aware if the information that will need to be provided and that will provide that information in a timely manner. The biggest issue I have with 203ks is that no matter how much I stress this, the borrower doesn't take it seriously and when they do find a house and make an offer, they still don't have a GC to work with. So then at the very last minute, they start calling around and find out that a lot of GC's want nothing to do with a 203k, so they end up settling for a third rate GC as they are now under contract and they end up being very difficult to work with because they don't want to provide you the documentation, nor can they prepare the work order the way HUD wants it. So, moral of the story is to start calling around now and find a GC that is willing to work with you on a 203k. If the GC is willing to work with you, but has never done a 203k, this is what you can tell him to expect from the process.

1.  There are 5 or 6 forms that you both will need to sign that pertain to fraud, and use of funds and all that.

2.  The formal work bid that comes from him will need to show an itemized break down of the total cost of repair between labor and materials.  The reason for this is that after closing, the lender will fund the cost of materials first, over a determined number of draws.  With each draw, they will send the appraiser out to verify that work is being completed as planned.  Once the last screw is turned and the appraiser verifies that everything is complete, the lender will fund the last draw which will usually be the labor portion of the work bid. 

3.  You will need a copy of their license (if required in your state), as well as a copy their Liability insurance. 

The last thing you want to do is get under contract with a bank owned house, then waste two weeks trying to find a contractor and then end up with a bad one that's hard to work with.  Having a GC picked out makes this process MUCH smoother because as soon as you are under contract, you can schedule a walk through with your GC and have your formal work bid in hand within a day or two, then your loan officer can prepare your loan app based on the formal work bid and proceed as normal.  So within a couple days or so of having your bid accepted, your loan has been submitted to underwriting and there's no screwing around.  Hope that helps!

Post: Hard/Private Money "Pre-Approval?"

James ZettelmeyerPosted
  • Akron, OH
  • Posts 32
  • Votes 12

To add to Eddie's comment, just make sure you fully understand what those lenders parameters are and make sure that the properties you are looking at fit those parameters. They all have their own guidelines on LTVs, ARVs, DSCR's, etc etc. So if you find a lender you like, just make sure you fully understand what there guidelines are, especially if you are flipping, so that you don't get left out in the cold at the very last minute as they may pre-approve you based on your strengths, however you still have to find deals that meet their criteria.

Unless you really like paying taxes, there is virtually no point in doing that as you cant write off your everyday living expenses through an LLC. So until you have legit business expenses, you'll most likely have to show a profit which means you'll pay taxes twice on the same income, once for the W2 and twice when you show it on your schedule c. So it sounds like your looking for a loophole that isn't there.

ha no prob.  A good broker will take the time to explain this stuff to you.  They should ask for, and collect, ALL of your financials and thoroughly review them before they issue you a pre-approval letter.  If you call a broker and he spends ten minutes on the phone with you and says your approved, don't waste your time.  You should walk away from your initial conversation with a broker with a greater understanding and knowledge on what the expect from your loan process and lending in general.  The good ones will take the time to do that.  Good luck!

Sent!  Thanks again!

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