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All Forum Posts by: Enes A.

Enes A. has started 3 posts and replied 12 times.

Hi,

I am remodelling a kitchen in the Seattle area and I am looking for good options for 1. materials (cabinets/countertops) and 2. Contractors.

Does anyone have good contacts/addresses to share ? 

Thank you

Quote from @JD Martin:

I'm still trying to picture in my head how combining a 2 unit into a 1 unit makes you lose light. Essentially making 2 into one is mostly a situation of just taking down dividing walls, unless you were changing interior partition walls which probably required a permit then so why not just do it then?

In any case, well that depends on your risk tolerance level. If you know what you're doing adding an exterior window is generally child's play in construction terms, especially if your walls are opened up and they're framed instead of masonry. If you don't know what you're doing you could seriously compromise your roof and the framing structure in that area, which is why you generally need a permit. You also generally have restrictions & qualifications depending on where the window is - if it's very high up from the ground, you might have to use a certain glass or the window might have to be a certain height. If it's in a basement area there may be size requirements for egress or light. ETC. 

What you are risking can't be answered because it depends on where you are. Some places will make you rip everything out, fine you, and make you start over. Some places won't care unless someone complains. Some places won't care at all. As far as risk management, if you did this and didn't know what you were doing and someone got hurt later, and sued you, once your insurance company found out you did it without permits they wouldn't defend you. 

Thank you for your answer JD.
1. when i merged the 2 units, i walled one of the entrances and its staircase to create more floor space. That blocked the light coming from that side which had small windows.
2. i didn’t ask for a permit for the merging, which is also another issue as now if the city inspector would come, they would be asking me about the other work… this part is ok as i am planning to revert it back to duplex when i leave to rent it out. But meanwhile i would like to have more light while i live in it.
3. i don’t mind paying professional good contractors who would do it the right way. It’s dealing with the city that i am trying to avoid as they have long delays and they charge a fortune for these things and because of what I said in 2, they might deny it.

I bought a duplex that I merged into a SF in the seattle area. As a result one of the room lost a lot of light and I would like to add a window in one of the walls. The issue is that permitting takes a lot of time and would cost more that the project itself (~2k).

A lot of people told me to just do it without a permit. Should I do that ? What am I really risking in that case ?
Thank you !

How come I don't see any of the pictures ?

Post: Ductless Mini Splits

Enes A.Posted
  • Posts 14
  • Votes 4

HVAC professionals are quoting me in the 9k$ for a mini split installation in Seattle... This is weird given that the condenser and mini splits cost 1k$. They're basically billing 8k$ for one day of work approximately. 1k$/hour essentially.

Does anyone have a good contact for installation ? 

Quote from @Albert Howard:

I recently found a lot of land that I have under contract and I have a contractor on standby. My question is, once I secure a commercial loan to build or get monies from Hard money, after its is built and rented, has anyone had luck or know that there are banks out there that will do a 30 year note with fixed rate on a Duplex that is an investment property?

The current bank I am talking to says that the commercial loan to build will be a 20 yr note and I just want to be sure that there are banks that will loan me money afterwards on a 30 yr note so I can refi out cash and BRRR this. Thanks for you help.


 May I ask how you got the hard money for this ? I have the same project and I don't know how to finance it. Thanks !

Originally posted by @Matt Devincenzo:

While the chemical burn may go deeper than just at the surface I would still think this could be repaired. Even concrete floors can be cut and polished, so with the correct tools to cut the surface back I'd assume this could be repaired as well. It may take polishing a large area so the 'low' spot isn't visible, but I believe it is at least do-able. Counter installers do essentially the same thing when they cut sink openings and then polish the resulting edges for an undermount sink.

But who would be able to do that ? No store or contractor I contacted (and I contacted plenty!) knew/wanted to do the job...

The damage was made with lye. Now there is a 5inches diameter white stain on the countertop. All experts said that it cannot be repaired..

Tenant insurance said it doesn't cover chemicals.

Would yOriginally posted by @Genny Li:
Originally posted by @Enes A.:
Originally posted by @Genny Li:

It's basically a lifetime surface unless you damage it. It doesn't wear like laminate.

I think you are referring to natural quartz and not the composite engineered ones like what I have.

 No, I'm not. The natural stone is actually QUARTZITE, not quartz. A good quality quartz, which is natural stone plus a binder, has a lifetime lifespan. It will yellow slightly over time, but it's still pretty much lifetime. People take it out because they get tired of it or they mistreat it and damage it. 

Would you have a formal source that confirms that ? I have looked at the original study by the nhchi (https://www.nachi.org/life-exp...) and it does not mention quartz. Some manufacturer are saying it's natural stone and adopt the 100y life expectancy... but it is not natural stone as you mentioned it.

Originally posted by @Genny Li:

It's basically a lifetime surface unless you damage it. It doesn't wear like laminate.

I think you are referring to natural quartz and not the composite engineered ones like what I have.