All Forum Posts by: Collin Maas

Any chance the city is flushing fire hydrants in the area?  This tends to effect the water pressure and sometimes make toilets run.  I tend to have to adjust the toilets in my house when the city does this.  If the problem seems to correct itself this could be the cause.

I think you want to get a new piece for the entire edge.  The pieces have a heat activated glue on them. I use a hot iron to put on my edges, I'd use one take the edge off.  Get a new edge piece from the home center use the same iron to put on a new piece.  You will need to use a trim router to finish the edges.

Thanks for the info. Now I know for next time.

I wish I would have had a 13 Grit.  I started with the 24 as I had a good quantity of it. Hindsight, I should have just gotten a different grit. 

 I'm going to disagree with you on them being not repairable. They turned out great. I'm a little ahead on cost- only because I had all left over sand paper.  You might be correct on the easier portion.

I found some good looking maple flooring under the old vinyl in the kitchen of the SFR that I'm remodeling. In most locations it came right up. There is a section in the middle where the stuff is really stuck down. I have a before and after picture after several hours of work removing the vinyl. I've tried using a hammer and chisel but have had the "best" results using a heat gun and a stiff paint scraper. My best guess is this stuff has been there since before the 1940's. I'm planning on removing the stuff and sanding and refinishing the floor with 24, 50 and 100 grit. Did other sections of floor that were covered with carpeting and they turned out great.

2 questions.

1)Is there a better way to remove this than a heat gun and scraper

2) I'm going to be using a floor sander with starting at 24 grit.  Any idea how that will work with some of the residue from the old floor still on the maple?

I'm an ex commercial roofer. Only once have I made use of the shingle warranty.  Usually only covers the cost of the shingles.  Owner paid much more out of pocket than he got from the shingle company to complete the repair.  The warranty likely won't transfer to a new owner.

bottom line I wouldn't get to hung up on the warranty.  Get the contractor that will do the best job, has the best references and will stand by his work if a problem arises.  

I feel I can learn a few things by standing on the sidewalk and looking at the home.

Roof- I can generally get a feel for the quality of the roof.  Look at the type of shingle is it an architectural or 3 tab.  3 tabs are usually older, if it is a 3 tab are the corners starting curl.  I like to look at the ridge line, is there any sagging.  If so there could be some structural issues.

I always keep my eye out for window AC units- then their either isn't central air or it isn't performing well.  Depending on the age of the house its possible that there is an old boiler and radiators and no duct work.  Getting well sized duct work to a second floor can be a real challenge and expense. Window units in conjunction with a condensing unit then I assume there is a ducted furnace that isn't working.   A visible condensing unit can be an indicator of how old the furnace is.

My real fear with something that I'm not able to get into is the foundation.  A bad foundation creates so many issue.

Just some of the things I like to pay special attention to 

Sorry this is happening to you.  Did you sign a contract with him? Part of your remedy may be in the contract.