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All Forum Posts by: Charles Craig

Charles Craig has started 4 posts and replied 13 times.

Post: HELOC payoff strategy

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12

Thank you for posting that!!!
It’s mind boggling to me people can understand the simplicity of it.

Mines is a little different but still...



Originally posted by @Brian Cardwell:
Here is a basic break down of how this works. The interest rate is pretty much irrelevant.

Basic facts :

Primary mortgage. Equals 200k

Salary equals 5k.

Total monthly expenses equals 3k

HELOC equals 20k in second position

So lets start this off.

First let's pull 10k out of the HELOC and put it on the principle of the 1st mortgage.

First mortgage = 190k

Heloc= 10k balance

Month 1

Then let's put your entire paycheck in the HELOC acct. This accomplishes paying the minimum payment on the HELOC.

HELOC= 5k balance

Now let's pay your expenses from your HELOC.

HELOC = 8k balance 5k(balance)+3k(expenses)

Month 1 balance

Primary mortgage 190k owed

HELOC 8k owed

Total debt 198k owed

Month 2

Put the entire paycheck in the HELOC

HELOC balance 3k owed (8k-5k)

Pay expenses of 3k

Mortgage Balance 190k

HELOC balance of 6k owed (3k+3k)

Total debt is 196k

Month 3

Pay expenses 3k

HELOC =9k

Put entire check in the HELOC

HELOC = 4k

Mortgage Balance owed 190k

HELOC = 4k

Total owed 194k

Rinse and repeat......

In month 5 your heloc balance owed will be 0.

Month 6

So in month 6 you put 10k from your heloc on the principle of your primary mortgage.

Primary mortgage Balance 180k.

HELOC balance is 10k

Total owed is 190k

Put your entire paycheck in the HELOC

HELOC balance. 5k

pay your expenses 3k

HELOC balance is 8k

Primary mortgage Balance is 180k

Total debt 188k

Month 7

Put entire paycheck in the HELOC 5k

HELOC = 3k

Pay your expenses 3k

HELOC balance is 6k

Mortgage Balance is 180

Total debt is 186k

At the end of one year your principle balance will be 180k . Not bad for living the same lifestyle and still have access to some cash.

Rinse and repeat until your debt is gone

It really is that simple.

The extra open credit (10k) on the HELOC above the 10k in this case is used as an emergency fund.

Post: HELOC payoff strategy

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12

I'm doing it right now!!!

Post: Replace your mortgage with a HELOC

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12
Absolutely.... I’ll find a reason. That’s the whole point. I intended to turn myself into the bank. So that’s how it’s going to work. It’s really simple if you change your approach to thinking about mortgages and financing. 
I love how you just attacked my way of thinking with nothing  but your own perception and how you handle things. 



Originally posted by @Brent Coombs:

@Charles Craig, good for you. However, I can almost guarantee that as you go along, well before your mortgage/HELOC is paid out, you will find an excuse to borrow against it again.

Therefore, it will not have worked!

(But my point would be: why should it work anyway? There'll always be opportunities to make more profit than your HELOCs Interest would cost you, so why wouldn't you take 'em?)

Think of how much investing you won't be allowing yourself, because of your (theoretical) "discipline" of always paying every excess dollar back into your HELOC! [Time for a re-think?]...

Post: Replace your mortgage with a HELOC

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12

Different strokes for different folks!

I actually talked to the guys @ replacemymortgage. They wanted me to waive the only factor that kept their skin in the game, I told them; no thanks. But I did get enough information from them to start digging. That led me to doing the rest of the leg work. It took a lot of calling around to different banks and actually going to visit banks and credit unions. I felt like a fool at time but nonetheless I got the info I needed.

The biggest thing the strategy is preaching is discipline. People are going to tell you do this, people are going to tell you to do that. What works for one, blah blah blah…

I've did the research and I’ve ran the numbers. And the way my life is set up, I have a checking and a saving and I have to transfer money... (Kevin Hart Joke)

But seriously; I've put in an extensive amount of research on this. I run the number every day and became obsessed with finding out more. I have built my own tool directly based on the information I received from a financial institutions; so… I’m good.

All this has led to the conclusion that I’m going to execute the strategy myself.

I PERSONALLY see the benefit in it.

I PERSONALLY think it makes sense.

I PERSONALLY know how to make it work for me.

And I can stand on my own and explain why it makes sense.

If anyone wants to know more hit me in the DM and I’ll try my best to explain why I think it will work.

Post: Line of credit question.

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12
Thanks for clearing that up. I have a CC with @ 6%. And all the places I talked to don't seem to offer lines of credit.

Post: Line of credit question.

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12
Ive been to several local banks here asking about lines of credit and none of them seem to offer that. While speaking with on lone officer they mentioned a credit card. So my question is: What is the big difference between an Unsecured line of credit for 10K, And having a credit card with a 10K limit?

Post: Line of credit question.

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12
Ive been to several local banks here asking about lines of credit and none of them seem to offer that. While speaking with on lone officer they mentioned a credit card. So my question is : What is the big difference between an Unsecured line of credit for 10K, And having a credit card with a 10K limit?

Post: New to BP (Wichita, KS)

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12

Thanks… KC is 2 ½ hours away. I’m open to talking and learning.

Originally posted by @Karmen Feist:

We aren't in the area but we are mentors and have a client in KC, not too far from you.  If we can be of any assistance, let me know.

Post: New to BP (Wichita, KS)

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12

Thanks.

I've been coming across so much information.

Post: New to BP (Wichita BP)

Charles CraigPosted
  • Investor
  • Wichita, KS
  • Posts 15
  • Votes 12

Thanks for the reply that is some really good information to know.
What criteria sets the neighborhood/areas' "class rating"?
I will definitely start looking into the C class area you detail.

Thanks!


Originally posted by @Jonathan R.:

@Charles Craig here is Wichita in a nutshell. If you are looking to flip a property, I'd look in the suburbs, Andover, Goddard, Maize, maybe Derby, Park City, or Valley Center. Granted real estate is super expensive right now in the suburbs as it is a major seller's market- if it were me and I were to do a flip in the suburbs I would buy one in November when no one else is looking and fix it up by March/May. The first three suburb cities I listed are Tier 1 school districts. If you are into buy and hold I would consider most of Wichita working class, though the east side of Wichita can be considered upper middle, many put their kids in private schools as the school districts aren't the best aside from the suburban schools. The area that can be considered D class in my opinion is around 13th and Grove to 21st and Grove, 13 and Oliver... that section of town. There are great deals to be had in that area though if you know what you are doing. BP recommends you start with a C class neighborhood. You can easily get a good rental in a C class area in Wichita 40k or below. I hope that helps a little bit.