All Forum Posts by: Brian Morris

What do you mean by quotes on tax properties

First time installing LVP.  I am a little confused about the expansion gap required around the perimeter of the room.

All the rooms I'm installing in have a baseboard only.  If you put your pinky under the baseboard, you can get all the way to your 1st knuckle until you touch the wall.  I believe I'm supposed to put my 1/4" spacers flush with the baseboard.  But, I'm pretty sure if I went ahead and slid the edge of the LVP under the baseboard to start out, I'd STILL have hefty gap before it touches the wall.  Does that make sense?..  

I'm an engineer, and overly analytical.. I'm driving myself a little nuts trying to figure out where I need to start the planks.

@Mark Faustrum how long ago did you do this?  Just asking if its held up over time.  One time I used something like that on my old deck, and it started peeling.  That having been said, I don't think I bothered even cleaning it or prepping the surface at the time.

@Bradley Padula I bet that would actually work.  Now that you mention it, I stripped an entire exterior of a house one summer with my dad when I was a teenager.  It was several coats, and century old paint.  We used the normal metal disc in an angle grinder.  Those tools are powerful.  I watched the diamabrush video, and I bet that would do the trick.  That having been said, I'll probably just paint that expensive goop/paint over the old finish, and see what happens.  Consider it an experiment.  I don't know if stripping off the old paint would help the liquid rubber, or even matter..

@Jim K. Wow that was a little too advanced for me!  Ill copy that to a doc for future reference though.

I think I'll give the liquid rubber brand a whirl.  It seems like its the most expensive.  I've been burned in the past with deck paint peeling up after a couple years.  I'll post a picture when done, and set a 1 and 2 year update.

@Pat L. wow!  thats hilarious... I can't imagine wanting to try that technique, but I can also picture getting so frustrated, they just would try just about anything.

@Aaron F. these boards are in pretty bad shape, like of large cracks, etc, with paint really down in there.  I think by the time I even made a dent sanding the whole thing, I could have just replaced the wood and have it looking really good. 

@Geoff K. You can see I pressure washed the balusters and rail on the left.  It looks a lot better, but theres also a ton of mildew still in wood, and many of the balusters are weak and have large cracks on the top.  And, the deck planks are really cracked, and very thick paint on it...

@Kyle Steinmetz Pressure washing the paint was useless.  I used it on the balusters, and a decent amount of black came off, but they still look pretty bad.  I understand about letting the wood dry out for a few months.

I'll call HD and lowes tomorrow to see if they have the decking... :/

@Geoff K. thanks for the suggestion!

@Geoff K. I was planning on staining.. so would you opt for untreated boards then?  I've heard you can't stain pressure treated wood if its still "wet", as in the moisture content is high the recent pressure treatment.

Wood isn't that cheap, but I still have to remove the old boards and install the new ones, speaking of time.

How do you strip thick paint off a deck? I put a little paint stripper on a patch, but it just gummies up the top layer slightly. Belt sander did a little better, but I would never finish. Is there a technique or product that works best? It looks like deck-over or similar paint.