All Forum Posts by: Dave Barnard

You're much better off relocating the register as capping off this line in any fashion can cause other problems with the system. Ducting systems (when sized properly) are designed with a certain amount of static pressure. By capping off a duct you have essentially undersized the ducting system as a whole and increased static pressure because there is one less outlet. This may not be a noticeable problem to you, however this can cause many problems in the near future.

If all the ducting under the house is accessible, it would be very easy to install a zoning system. This may require some modifications to the ducting system, however this will give your tenants the control they are after while saving you alot of money on 2 mini splits. Mini splits are nice for small places and are efficient but the zoning will be less out of pocket up front. If the electric bill your paying is the main concern, I would probably go with high efficiency mini splits if the apartments are small. If they are larger with more than one bedroom I would stay with the package system (wich can be upgraded to a high efficiency model) and add zoning.

If you have concerns about your contractor's liability limits, I would assume the worst case senario. Let's assume he burns you're house to the ground. How much would it cost to rebuild? This would be the bare minimum. I'm not sure about your state, but here in Ca, an HVAC contractor is not required to carry liability insurance. Only a small bond of 12,500. Personally I carry 1,000,000. I frequently have to add GC's, insurance companies and aothers as certificate holders in order to do business with them. Depending on you're contractors insurance carrier, it should be very easy and quick to obtain the proof of insurance with you added to the policy. This is great protection for you. Your contractors willingness to provide the insurance, really makes a statement about his confidence and ethics. If he is hesitant to provide you with your request, then you should be hesitant to do business with him.
Dave

I hope who ever installed the air handler sized it appropiately. Might I suggest to have a different HVAC contractor come out to evaluate the system. If you have only had 1 person look at it, you might want a second opinion.

Airflow is very important in an HVAC system. Proper duct sizing is key to providing proper airflow.

What size return duct is there now? What is the system tonnage? What is the square footage of the home? What is the age of the system? How long after the system was installed did this problem begin, or was this problem present from day 1? Does the house feel humid?

If this problem has been an issue since day 1, it may very well be a ducting problem or the system may not be properly sized. If this problem started after years of cooling fine, then it is likely that the return duct is not undersized, however may be partially disconnected or torn allowing outside air to be drawn in to the living space. If the duct is restricted due to a pinch or being smashed, the system will most likely freeze up.

"This tenant used to work in HVAC. He thinks the return for the air handler is restricted, and it needs a bigger return."

What is his basis for the above statement? Did he measure static pressure? CFM? He can "think" whatever he wants. I guess there is a reason he "used" to work in HVAC.

Depends on the buyer. A first time buyer may be clueless, whereas a 2nd or 3rd time buyer may have had bad experiences with a/c and will likely pay more attention. I don't think there is a specific rule or guidline that needs to be followed here. You may just have to go with your gut feeling. If you have concerns about getting a lower offer as a result of the old condenser, then consider how much lower that offer might be in relation to what the new unit will cost you. In this market (at least here in this area of so. cal) I have not seen to many properties sell for full asking price anyway. With that in mind I feel your better off not replacing the unit until it becomes an issue. If it does, use it as a bargaining tool to negotiate with your end buyer.

Exactly how old is the condenser? If it's in the 25 to 30 year range I would probably replace it. However if it's newer and functions well, I would not replace it unless your end buyer brings it up. My experience with flips has been most buyers go off of what their home inspector says. If he says it functions your buyer will likely not mention anything. There are buyers out there that will have concerns with an a/c system that appears old and warn out, but deal with that IF it comes up.

Examples:
You may not want to market to properties that have more than one owner. (this may require extra work and problems if the two owners don't agree.)

You may also not want to pursue properties that have less than two bathrooms or bedrooms.

There are many other restrictions such as area, square footage or lot size that may make a particular property not appealing to an investor. These things all depend on the individual and your market. Therefore you have to go through the list and clean out everything that does not appeal to you so you don't waste your time and money marketing to those property owners.

Moving the condenser seems overkill to me given the situation. It was stated it sits on a concrete pad. If moved you need concrete, copper, refrigerant, drier and electrical work plus labor. The cost will be very high to do this.

I like the idea of drilling a new hole, however we do not know where the interior walls are to know if that is even possible.

As to
"I would recommend that you put the dryer cap back where it belongs and take a look in two months at the condensor coils near the vent. If there is no lint, you are fine. If it is clogged with lint then you can either separate the two or use the garden hose and spray off the coils twice a year or as needed."

There are two things wrong with this. Number one is that there will be lint (not "if") and it will need to be cleaned regularly. The problem is that dirt and lint will eventually build up in the fins that a simple hose down will just not get it. The second thing is why would you want all that heat on a condenser coil thats trying to remove heat. Every time that dryer is running while the a/c is on you affect efficiency and performance. It may not be by a huge amount but over time it adds up. Plus the extra strain it puts on the compressor which is the most expensive component to replace.
Dave

--will it still be possible to put the hood on at the end, though, if the elbow is flush against the wall?
I don't want to just leave an exposed hole at the end because lizards, insects, etc. will enter the tube.

Just assemble everything together first (before strapping) leaving the elbow out away from the wall a little including the hood first, and then strap to the wall.
Dave