Posted almost 9 years ago

Garden Paving Types & Patio Installation Guides

Paths and patios are the frameworks of the garden, linking different parts of it together both physically and aesthetically and provides firm surfaces for walking on, which dry out quickly after rain. There are far more interesting ways of using paving than to create paths running from one side of the garden to another, cutting the area into strips. This places undue emphasis on the path as the main feature, whereas it is an element of the total composition, made up also of plants, grass and available water. Using a greater area of paving to include a terrace and perhaps a play space, integrates the path more successfully into the overall scheme, while it still provides accessibility.

Choosing your garden paving material

A wide variety of paving materials is available, and your choice should be based on a combination of aesthetic, practical and economic considerations. The end result should be suited to its purpose, pleasing to the eye and prices within the budget of the buyer. Other factors are time needed to complete the work and if you are doing the work yourself or hiring a professional paving layer.

It is inevitable that some of these considerations will conflict. For instance, although concrete is a cheap, long-lasting material which is relatively simple to lay, it is often thought unacceptable for aesthetic reasons. Broken pieces of any material tend to be cheaper than regular shapes, but to lay crazy paving without an uneven and messy end result is no easy task. Ceramic tiles, slate and marble can look magnificent in the right setting, but they are expensive and may chip or crack if subjected to frost or constant wear. Paving your garden in mixed materials such as combinations of wood and brick or stone slabs and cobble can be effective. However, this type of treatment requires careful planning and skilful design if it is to read as a unified visual concept.

Where possible use a material which is employed in your house, making the garden an architectural as well as a physical extension of the building. Stone, brick, concrete and wood are the materials of which most houses are built and all can be used successfully in the right situation; their particular suitability is discussed in-depth in this article. Where it is not possible to adopt the housing material for your paving, for example, brick may be too expensive or large slabs of stone are unsuitable for curved paths, try to use it as an edging to lawn or beds, or in combination with another paving material.

The smaller the unit of pavement, the more visually suitable it is likely to be for the garden setting. The smallest units are often the most expensive and take longer to lay. The size of a unit of paving making up the surface often sets the pace at which one travels over it and this should also be considered when choosing your material. For instance, a thick layer of gravel can actually hold up the pedestrian as he crunches his way through it. The effect of a single material in this respect can also vary according to how it is laid. Thus, cobbles, when laid flat, lose some of their quality but the surface created is relatively smooth; when put loose or set high, their surface is broken and forbidding and they can be uncomfortable to walk on.

Laying Foundations for Paving

Whatever the type of paving and wherever it is, it will sometimes get wet, so you must allow for drainage. Installing a garden drainage system can Paving should always be laid to slope gently away from the house so that the water falls either into surrounding beds or grass or into a gulley connecting with a soakaway or the surface drainage system of the house. The channels to gulleys can always be used as an element of the layout. Across gradient of 25mm in 2m should give a sufficient slope. If you house has a damp proof course, make sure that the level of paving is well below it (at least 150mm or 6in) at the point at which it meets the house. In some countries, this is a legal requirement, but in any case, it is a sensible precaution to prevent damp from entering the house walls. If the house leads directly to the paved outside area, possibly through sliding doors, and it is essential to have a continuous level, a step can be built, leading down from the indoor floor height to lower the paving level. There should be a gap of at least 25mm (1in) between the step and the wall of the house to catch the rain. If the gap is any narrower, it is likely to block with leaves, dirt and snow in the winter.

All paving should be laid properly on a firm base to provide a stable, level bed. This is particularly important either on an access path to your front door which is in constant use or on a terrace, especially one which is used by the young or the elderly. In some situations and for certain materials a sand base will be adequate; paving slabs can be laid on the base or ‘spot bedded’, using a few spots of mortar. However, a good foundation usually necessitates a base of hardcore (broken bricks or stone), ashes or coarse gravel, not less than 75mm (3in) thick and well consolidated by rolling. Before considering each of the paving materials in detail, instructions are given on how to lay on a sand base and on hardcore mortar, showing methods which will be suitable for most types of paving.

How to lay Foundations

Although there is some danger of movement or settlement, the simplest way to lay paving slabs is to bed them in the sand spread on top of the earth which has been compacted with a roller or floor compactor.
If subject to heavy loads or constant use, paving slabs should be bedded in mortar. After levelling the ground, use a tamper to compact a layer of hardcore (brick rubble or broken concrete).
Use a section of the plank to spread a layer of ash, lean mix concrete (1 part cement to 3 parts sand) or similar excellent material over the hardcore, as this will bind it together.
Trowel the mortar over the area of the first slab. Make sure that it is spread to the correct height, with the necessary slope for drainage, by checking it against a string guideline.
Pieces of wood can be temporarily inserted between slabs to ensure even spacing. Tap the tiles into position, using a spirit level to check the desired fall.

Specialist Tools for Laying Paving

If you intend to do your own paving work, it may be necessary to get hold of a few specialist paving tools. Some of these, for example, a spirit level will probably be essential for several jobs and therefore well worth buying. Others such as a bull float can be hired. Tools such as a wooden float can easily be homemade.

1.Extended Spirit Level – to check horizontal planes.
2.Carpenters Square – to check the right angles
3.Pointed Trowel – for jobs involving mortar
4.Tamper – to pack soil or hardcore
5.Steel Trowel – to finish concrete surfaces
6.Wooden Float – to finish concrete surfaces
7.Bull Float – to spread vast areas of concrete
8.Screed – for levelling vast areas of mortar
9.Mason’s Hammer – to chip away rough edges
10.Chisel – to cut and dress brick and stone
11.Jointer – to finish off mortar pointing

Traditional Paving in Natural Stone

Natural stone slabs or flags can be found in almost every shade from creamy yellow to grey and they make a superb paving material, especially suitable for a rural or old urban setting.

Newly quarried stone very expensive, especially when it has been cut to be laid coursed like old stone slabs. However, local stone slabs were used for paving the streets in many countries until comparatively recently and it is still possible to buy these second hand. Not only are the old slabs cheaper, but they have a beautiful mellow appearance, weathered and worn. Though they do not have the standard thickness of new stone, they do come in regular shapes, either square or rectangular. Some of the slabs are in fact relatively massive, but these would be out of scale with new properties and too heavy for roof gardens.

It is important to work with the natural shape and size of the slabs; cutting is painfully difficult and should be avoided if possible. Where you do not have enough stone to cover the desired area, old stone slabs can be used successfully in conjunction with bricks, cobbles or granite setts, any smaller element in fact.

For regular garden use, natural stone slabs can just be bedded in the sand as their own weight is heavy enough to stabilize them. A firm, the well-drained foundation is essential; otherwise, the pieces will settle unevenly. If the soil drains slowly, make a base of 25 mm to 50 mm (1 in to 2 in) of gravel, and then fill the area with 50 mm to 100 mm (2 in to 4 in) of sand. Lay the slabs in position and check the level but remember to allow for the variations in thickness in the old plates.

Make sure they are well bedded by moving them around with both hands until they seem firm or tamper them down lightly with a hammer on a wooden block. Leave the joints open or brush sand and gravel between them; alternatively, use top soil and small plants to fill the joints.

Slate and Marble

Slate and marble are both luxury paving materials and tend to be more expensive for areas other than those which they are quarried or cut. Used in the right way, both are extremely attractive, hard wearing and easily cleaned. They can be supplied then, which makes them suitable for roof gardens or for flooring a conservatory which adjoins a living room in the same material.

Slate, being slightly more textured and having more subtle colouring, lends itself better to use with plants. Marble looks its best under sunlight but can be garnish if used without care and restraint.

Crazy or Random Paving

Most of the significant elements of paving look best when laid in a regular pattern. One reason for this is that the outline of the terrace or path is usually straight so regular shapes fit into this and the overall design much better. But materials such as concrete slabs, old stone slabs or marble are all cheaper when broken and they can be laid in a random pattern known as crazy paving. When wrongly placed, with large joints between the elements and poorly pointed, crazy paving lives up to its name, invariably being uneven into the bargain. However, it can look effective when large irregular areas are laid to fit together like a jigsaw. Such laying requires great care and precision. The important thing is to edge the paved area with bigger pieces of stone, as small ones break away more easily. It is a good idea to arrange the stones into a pleasing pattern before they are fixed in place, avoiding continuous joint lines.

Paving the garden in patterns of bricks

Brick is perhaps the versatile paving medium for garden use. It is available in a vast range of durable and suitable colours that do not fade, it is the right sort of scale for a small garden and it matches the material of which many houses are still built. Begin made up of small units, brick can be used to make gradual changes of direction or level; to form foot holds on a slope, and, for example, each brick can be laid slightly tilted. Brick also mixes well with other materials; it can be used effectively for demarcation and pattern to retain concrete laid in-situ.

The inadequate weather-resistance of regular walling bricks was formerly a drawback. They were often too soft to withstand the water in them which froze in winter and so started to break up the composition of the brick. The alternative was to use a harder surface engineering brick which was either too dark and sombre in colour or too bright a red. However, the recent widespread availability of the brick pavior has made brick far more feasible for domestic use. Paviors come in varying shades and can be done either in the standard brick clay or, more recently, in concrete. Their great virtue is that they are then, from 25 mm to 50 mm (1 in to 2 in) compared to the 65 mm (2.5 in) thickness of ordinary bricks; this makes them comparatively light and, therefore, ideal for roof or patio work. Old bricks can usually be obtained and they have a more smooth appearance, but check on the bricks hardness, and be prepared to pay more since the price includes cleaning them.

Brick is perhaps the most versatile paving medium for garden use. It is available in a vast range of powerful and subtle colours which do not fade. It is the right sort of scale for a small garden and it matches the material, of which many houses are still built. Being made up of small units, brick can be used to make gradual changes of direction or level: to form footholds on a slope, for example, each brick can be laid slightly tilted. Brick also mixes well with most other materials, it can be used effectively for demarcation and pattern to retain concrete laid in situ.

The poor weather resistance of regular walling bricks was formerly a drawback. They were often too soft to withstand the water in them which froze in winter and so started to break up the composition of the brick. The alternative was to use a harder surfaced engineering brick which was either too dark and sombre in colour or too bright red. However, the recent widespread of availability of the brick pavior has made brick far more feasible for domestic use.

Paviors come in varying shades and can be done either in the typical brick clay or more recently, in concrete. Their great virtue is that they are thin, from 25mm to 50 mm compared to the 65mm thickness of ordinary bricks; this makes them comparatively light and there more ideal for roof or patio work. Old bricks can usually still be obtained and they have a more mellow appearance, but check on the bricks hardness and be prepared to pay more since the price includes cleaning them.

Laying the Bricks

Bricks used for paving do not have to be bonded tightly as in a wall, as they are subject to less stress, they can, therefore, be laid in a great variety of attractive patterns. Certain patterns, such as herringbone, have directional characteristics that can be used to emphasised features of the garden plan. Building bricks can be laid flat, with the recessed area in the middle of the brick, known as the frog, face down (bedding face). This uses fewer blocks than laying them more traditionally “on edge”, that is with the narrow side upwards (stretcher face). Certain patterns need to be seen over a large area to be effective while others, such as basket weave, stretcher bond and herringbone, can be equally successful in a narrow path.

They can be laid directly on a 20 mm to 40 mm bed of sand after excavating to the required depth and first placing a 70mm layer of consolidated hardcore, ash or similar material. For a firmer base, they can be added to a mortar mix.

Where bricks are only laid on sand, an edging will help to keep them permanently in place. A single or second course of bricks set on end and bedded in mortar makes a very attractive edging. Alternately the outside edge of the path or terrace can only be laid on a concrete or mortar base with mortar joints between the bricks. A timber edging can also be effective in the right setting but choose treated or durable wood which will not rot in contact with the ground.

Pointing

Good pointing, like good walling, can be utterly ruined by the manner in which it is pointed. Paving can be flush jointed, that is without pointing to the elements, or with a little sand brushed in between them. This way weeds are encouraged to grow between units, which may or may not be desirable. Most paving looks best with the joints slightly brushed out or recessed so that each element stands out quite clearly.

The joints can be filled with mortar or lime by using a trowel, or wet mortar mix, known as grout, can be poured into tight joints. Both methods can be messy and one needs a good eye and steady hand. Care should be taken to keep paving clean while working since it's hard to get dried mortar on a porous surface. Probably the cleanest way is to prepare dryish sand and cement mix; brush it in between the joints and lightly water it. If the paving is laid on a porous base, just leave the brushed in mix and water will creep in, moisten and set the mix on its own.

Garden Paving - Concrete Paving For Strength and Durability

For a large area of paving which has to be hard surfaced consider the use of concrete laid in situ, that is on the spot. It is permanent, needs no maintenance and can be moulded to suit any shapes or levels. Since concrete expands and contracts with changes in temperature, it should only be laid in areas of not more than 3 metres, about three yards square. If the area to be paved is larger than this it will have to be broken up into a pattern or reinforced.

When opening a small garden, in situ concrete is probably best laid in squares placed neatly next to each other with only a slight gap between, possibly filled with sand. If each square is allowed to dry before the next one is laid, filling the joints should not be necessary. Concrete can be textured in different ways to produce interesting patterns: drawing a stiff broom across it when it’s nearly set, for example, creates a ribbed texture and brushing concrete before it's fully dry exposes the gravel aggregate in its composition, making a pebbly finish. If you are employing someone else to do the job, have a sample prepared on the ground or in an old seed box as a guide. A sophisticated way of using in situ concrete is to lay it in a pattern with brick, granite setts or even concrete slabs in a contrasting colour.

Laying your own concrete is a comparatively cheap way to surface an area but the work is heavy and messy. It must be carefully planes and requires more than one pair of hands. The first thing to do is to calculate the volume of concrete needed, which is indicated by the chart; then decide on the correct mix for the job. For a small area, you can buy bags of dry-mixed concrete so that all you have to do is add water. Otherwise, you can order ingredients and mix them yourself, either with a shovel or small hired concrete mixer. For big jobs – if you are using more than about 3 cubic metres of concrete, the most practical method is the ready mix truck that delivers the concrete and pours it by chute directly to where it will be used. If you use ready mixed concrete, have the site fully prepared, with the entire wooden framework ready for when the lorry arrives. When it is not possible to pour it directly into the frame, you can transport the concrete by wheelbarrow. But you will need help since the concrete must be laid within 2 hours of delivery and 1 cubic metre takes about 40 wheelbarrow loads.

In situ concrete requires a firm and level surface. If the soil is relatively firm and you want a surface level with the surrounding ground, all you need to do is to dig down to the same depth as the concrete area – 100mm for a drive, 50mm for a path. With loose soil, put down a layer of rubble first and compact it with a roller; paths need 25mm to 50mm of the debris while drives need 75mm. When laying concrete on a cracked base, first break this up and compact the debris, as a new layer laid on top of an old base will often crack or scale.

Laying Concrete in Situ

In setting out the formwork for in situ concrete, prepare a base, at least, 100mm wider than the proposed size of the finished area of paving. Build a strong formwork from 25mm by 75mm timber, with pegs at 1-meter intervals. Check the formwork with a spirit level, allowing a drainage slope of 6mm in 300mm. A 20mm thick block of wood placed under the batten supporting the spirit level will give the correct slope for a path 1 meter wide.
Pour the concrete into the formwork, getting it as near as possible to its final position so as to minimize further handling. Use a rake or shovel to spread the mix evenly, leaving about 25mm above the formwork to allow for compaction.
Compact and level the concrete with a thick plank. Lift the plank a little and then drop it, moving it along half the thickness of the plank each time; repeat this process and finally remove excess concrete by sliding the plank from side to side with a sawing action.
When the surface water has evaporated, finish the concrete with a wooden float. Move the float in sweeping arcs to bring the fine particles to the surface.
If you want a rough, non-slip texture, drag a broom across the surface of the concrete. The stiffer the bristles, the more irregular the final texture, will be.
The aggregate in the concrete can be exposed to give a pebbly surface. When the concrete begins to harden, hose it gently and brush away the top layer of cement. Cover newly laid concrete with damp sacking, waterproof building paper or polyethene sheets. After about four days in warm weather and up to ten in winter, the concrete should have set sufficiently to take light weights, but keep heavy loads off for another four to ten days just to be safe.

Concrete slabs

The pre-cast slab is by far the most commonly used paving material though it is more expensive than concrete laid in situ. Used sensitively over a limited area, without too much pattern and a little colour, it is an excellent material, being hard-wearing and easy to clean. Concrete slabs also mellow relatively quickly and their colours even fade and is often a blessing, for the over patterned terrace is as demanding to walk on as the over patterned carpet inside. Check the colour of any slab you want, seeing it both wet and dry.

Paving slabs come in most sizes and shapes: squares, rectangles, circles and even pre-arranged crazy paving in a variety of different textures. Patterns can then are made up as desired but remember that a paving pattern is only part of a larger design and it should not be allowed to disrupt the whole, so keep it simple.

Depending on the wear that the terrace or path will take, slabs can be laid either in sand or in a mortar. Another method when putting them in the sand is to use four to five evenly spaced spots of mortar for each slab. They should always be arranged to fall away from any structure allowing the surface water to run off. Make sure you lay the tile the right way, with the coarse textured side upwards. If the paving abuts the lawn, set the slab 10mm below the grass to allow for mowing.

Interlocking paving blocks used for road construction in some countries for years have recently been adapted for home landscaping. They are ideal for use in the garden, on a terrace or a drive. They are made of higher quality concrete and can be laid flush in an interlocking pattern without mortared joints. Their virtue is that they can take a considerable weight and do not creep laterally, as smaller paving materials tend to do with weight upon them. Concrete blocks are available in various colours and are textures like a brick, patterns varying according to the manufacturer.

Kerbing Paved Areas

A kerb may not be necessary if the paving itself holds back the earth sufficiently. A kind of small retaining barrier is needed only where there is an abrupt change of level between path and bed and where you cannot just excavate earth from below the paving and throw the soil back into the bed.

If possible, make a curb out of the same material as the paving. Builders, left to their own device, tend to kerb the edge of any pavement with a thick piece of concrete whether it complements the paving material or not. The advantage of concrete kerbs is that they are available in relatively long runs. They can work well if the path is paved with concrete slabs, for instance, or where concrete forms part of the paving pattern.

A concrete kerb looks better placed so that the square edge of the kerb is upright, with the rounded edge on the ground. Additionally, foundations should be located underneath a kerb, or the kerb itself set higher than the first paving so that it actually retains it (the smaller the paving unit, the more essential this is).

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