Electrical concerns with Kitchen Renovations

Kitchen Renovation

Kitchen Renovations have many vignettes requiring not only an acute eye for style and detail, but a respect for the National Electric Code. There are many kitchen renovations where the designer, homeowner, or investor are unaware, or fail to identify that they must meet current code requirements. Some people may think that the code enforcement officer is demanding things because he can. This is seldom the case. Code Enforcement officers must enforce the adopted code. Across the country there is no standardized adoption of code. Some jurisdictions are still on the 2009 code. This is slightly disheartening because the current code is 2017 with the next addition to be released in 2020. Some jurisdiction may also be enforcing the International Code Council (ICC) Residential building code which has a few requirements above and beyond the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) National Electric Code (NEC). This blog will address some of the basic requirements and an electrician’s perspective and interpretation based on the 2017 NFPA 70, NEC. What this blog isn't, is instructions, directions or knowledge shared for an untrained person to complete their project. Wiring is not a hobby! Hire a licensed and insured contractor for your and your tenant’s peace of mind.

To start things off, below find an outline of some basic needs/wants in a modern-day kitchen. Following that up, a discussion of some of the code requirements. Finally, some observations from an electrician’s perspective, to allow a fluid execution of your next kitchen renovation.

1.Counter top receptacles

2.Lighting Circuit

3.Range Circuit

4.Microwave

5.Dishwasher

6.Garbage disposal

7.Range hood

8.Island/bar receptacles

9.Under sink kick space heater

Kitchen renovations can be as expedient as replacing existing receptacles, switches and luminaries, all the way to full on guts or complete additions. The scope of the project will dictate how much one must come in compliance with current code. Many municipalities have a trigger percentage, requiring total compliance. Incidental electrical replacement should not trigger this benchmark.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) publishes the National Electric Code (NEC) every three years. NFPA 70 is the code book called “The NEC”. The requirements written within, are considered the minimum code. There is no requirement that would restrict going above and beyond what is published in the NEC. Like most codes, the requirements within, are there because someone in the field submitted a proposal, and or, someone had significant injury or death. These proposals are submitted and forwarded to different code panels comprised of experts: from the field; from industry; from enforcement; and NFPA representatives. These various code panels receive the proposals review them, debate the proposals, accept public comment on them, and then make recommendations for inclusion in the next published Code Book. NFPA 70 is on a three-year cycle with the next to be released in 2020.

Counter top receptacles have had the same requirements for at least the last twenty years. In some older homes, pre-1980’s you may encounter a single circuit supplying the entire Kitchen. As the kitchen designs have increased and the plethora of kitchen appliances have become the norm, the demand for power in the kitchen, has increased dramatically. It is not uncommon in some of the modern-day kitchens to see greater than five, small appliance (SA) kitchen circuits. The intent of the code is to supply enough power to meet the demands of the mixers, blenders, toaster ovens etc. Because of this, the two required SA circuits, must be 20 amp and must also, be GFCI and AFCI protected. Any counter space greater than twelve inches must have a receptacle. This can become a challenge for some designs where space maximization is the norm. The area around the kitchen sink where a window and close cabinet layout may present a problem here. The structural framing members, King studs, Jack Studs and headers sometimes make it impossible to install a receptacle box in these greater than 12-inch counter spaces. In discussing spacing, there shall be no space along a counter top of 48 inches without out a receptacle. The intent is that anywhere in that 48 inches a 24-inch appliance cord would reach a receptacle with no requirement for an extension cord. There are other requirement for in and around the sink that we will not discuss here.

There shall be at least one lighting circuit in the kitchen. This shall not be GFCI protected and can provide the power to recessed cans, under cabinet lights or other luminaries in the design. Again, this is a minimum and with some layout and designs multiple lighting circuits may be required. The lighting circuit can be a 15-amp rated circuit. Some things to consider when laying out kitchen lighting, especially recessed cans, is the shadowing effect and if crown molding will be installed. On more than one kitchen job, spacing and relocation have been a necessity after identifying problems. It is best to discover this before drywall is installed. Under-cabinet lighting varies and an entire blog can be written to address under cabinet lighting.

The range circuit is not all that complicated but can create a challenge not knowing if the range will be gas or electric. An electric range will need a 50-amp rated circuit. This is fed from a 2 pole 50-amp breaker. This does not need to be AFCI or GFCI protected. The 50 amp is a minimum. Some ranges like Jenn Aire, require a 60-amp circuit. 50 amps requires a #8 copper and 60 amp requires #6 copper. These circuits also need to have three current carrying conductors with an integral ground, also known as a four wire (Red, Black, White, Bare Copper). The old three wire conductors are unsafe, and three prong cords should be upgraded on the appliance to the four wire. If the range is gas, then it plugs into a regular outlet 20-amp outlet. Although there is no specific code requiring this circuit to be dedicated or 20 amp, it is prudent to do so. Some manufacturers state in their listing and labeling info that the dedicated line is required. If this is the case with your renovation you could fail your inspection for non-compliance, as the NEC does require following the labeling and listing criteria. With a normal cook top, the load is minimal and the need to have a dedicated circuit is not necessary and often skipped by many electricians. However, if the new range has a convection oven then the 20-amp circuit would be nearly maxed out. This is one of the reasons the manufacturers require a dedicated circuit.

The microwave is another of those appliances that are often found plugged in to the counter top SA circuit nearest. This is or could be an oversight. There is however, some discussion among the code writers that a dedicated circuit should be required for any microwave. Most commonly in remodels and Kitchen builds, the microwave is mounted above the range and often contains the vent hood as well. Code language 210.23(A)(2) reads, “shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch circuit rating”. A "normal" microwave running at 1200 Watts at 120 Volts shows 10 Amps. This is half of the 20-amp circuit but does not exceed 50%. However, if that microwave is a 1500 watt, the most appropriate for modern kitchens, that would use 12.5 amps. Why leave the future code violation to fate when one can easily run the dedicated circuit at the time of the build. If you run a dedicated line for a gas range, there is no reason not to connect the over the range microwave to the same circuit.

The dishwasher is a motor load and should have its own dedicated circuit. In addition, the receptacle cannot be behind the unit in the same cabinet space it is installed. It is common to see the dishwasher and the garbage disposal plugged into a single duplex receptacle under the sink. Sharing the grounded conductor (neutral) is not allowed and two separate dedicated circuits should be run, one for each. It is common for these motors to share a receptacle but really is asking for trouble with the potential overload. That having been said, both dedicated circuits could be a 15-amp circuit and run on a #14 wire. The dishwasher should be plugged in to a receptacle. This acts as the disconnect when servicing the dishwasher.

The garbage disposal is usually plugged into a receptacle under the sink. There is a possibility that the disposal was hard wired, directly wired from a junction box under the sink. There is also a possibility that the disposal shares the same circuit as the dishwasher. This will probably be fine for 1/8 horse power or less. Any higher HP disposal should be on a 20-amp dedicated circuit.

The Range hood can be confusing and create much discussion. A lot of times people will place a receptacle in the cabinet above the range hood. If this is the case than that receptacle needs to be a dedicated receptacle. Should the hood be hard wired, then the circuit could come off the electric Gas Stove receptacle. However, the hood is connected electrically, it cannot be connected to the SA branch circuit.

Islands are often a marker for a failed inspection. Often designers do not leave enough room for the required receptacle. Often the granite counter top is extended too far past the edges or there is no room inside the drawer cabinet the counter is mounted to. The code has requirements for the lip of the counter be no more than two inches past the receptacle. There is a second requirement that the receptacle can not be greater than twelve inches below the counter top. This requirement in an island is null and void if the island remains movable. If the Island is movable than there is an exemption to the requirement. If an island is fixed and requires a receptacle, the wire feeding the receptacle has to be protected from physical damage. It has in the past been common practice to run the NM-B wire right in the cabinet and up to the box with the receptacle. More and more inspectors are failing this method. The correction method they are looking for is the conductor to be in pipe or MC wire.

The under-sink kick space heater is also a motor load or a heating element and should have its own circuit. The amperage should be based off the name plate rating of the kick space heater, but if a 12-2 is run there is no issues later.

For ease of confusion and no surprises when the inspector shows up, it is advisable to bring your electrician in on the planning phase. Not only is this beneficial in ensuring that the correct number of circuits are being run to the kitchen, it also will clear up any lighting issues before they happen. Lastly the electrical boxes being used may be the difference between a failed inspection and a good to go. Boxes have to be within an 1/8 of an inch of the surface of the wall. This becomes a problem when tile backdrops are added. The inspector could require box extensions to any not meeting this code. The more prudent way to solve this issue is to use boxes that are adjustable and slide in and out with a screw. Every job is different, but the basics remain consistent. The next code may witness newer changes and different ways of acceptable methods, so it is important to hire a licensed electrician, as we are required to take code update courses to maintain our licenses. (at least that is the case in Maine, Massachusetts, Vermont, and New Hampshire).