water valves and doorknobs...

water valves and doorknobs...

Tucson, AZ · Member since 2008 · 945 posts · 45 votes

Feb 20, 2009: Two questions one in, one out:

Security door: the men who installed my security bars yesterday (Thurs) also removed, painted, and reinstalled the (Home Depot) security doors. I say HD because they are really not the best, but only adequate. Both have deadbolts as well as locking doorknobs. Both knobs are/were the problems. Previously, the front door DB locked, but not so much the knob. Now, both are pretty solid. I guess the door was moved slightly to side to make that happen. The back door, both locked and held. Now, only the deadbolt in the back locks. The doorknob lock does not hold at all, one can just pull the door open, with very little effort. The men are coming back tomorrow-Saturday. Should I complain about it? It would be nice to have it, but,

The storm door has 2 locks, deadbolt and doorknob. On my other house in the back, I had just one lock on the security door, and one on the sliding glass door.

Re-setting the metal door requires a LOT of work, and he already installed a nice doggie door for me at no charge.

Do doorknobs come with longer tongues? (Is that the name of the part that sticks out?) Can I just get a longer tongue for this off the shelf, probably cheap knob?

2: Washer hookup: When installing the clothes washer, the men commented on the rust on the base of the lever that controls the water going into the hoses. This is the valve that is attached to the plumbing, NOT the washer itself. It sits above the washer, and I (Choose to) open the valve (Pull the lever) when I want to wash clothes, and push the lever closed when I am not using the washer. The valve is in a plastic bay above and behind the washer, the drain hose also goes into the drain through the bay.

I would guess there was a pretty constant leak for rust to have formed, (It's 15 years old), or maybe a leak and it just sat in water as the washer was being used. At any rate, Should that valve be replaced? I don't know the construction of the plastic "bay" the plumbing comes up through and the hoses connect to. Why is it leaking, and could that water have leaked down into the wall or is it molded plastic that would require evaporation for the water to dry up?
It looks like if the water to the house is off, that valve could be removed and replaced. Is It that simple?
There is no mold and no discoloration on the wall or floor behind the washer, so can I assume any leak did NOT go down between the studs and into the wall?

Thanks.

OfGift

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  • Member since 2009 · 499 posts · 117 votes
    17y

    Are you sure that door latch isnt hanging up on edge of strike?? Maybe an adjustment will do it,ask him.??

    As to the valve,is it a packing nut type? Can you tighten it own a bit and keep the seep down? Or put a bit moe packing in it to stop seep?

    Rust can be surface rust,but maybe a real slow seep. Hard to SEE from here!! I dont understand why you would shut this off each time,,,generally left always ON!!

  • Real Estate Investor · Baroda, MI · Member since 2008 · 204 posts · 2 votes
    17y

    Im not sure I understand. They fixed the front door NOT the back door and now the back door to your compound isnt latching properly?

    Why would you choose to shut off the water each time? You can leave it on unless you have a leak.

  • Tucson, AZ · Member since 2008 · 945 posts · 45 votes
    17y

    I'll check with him tomorrow. Thanks. Don't know anything about the valve yet. I've always shut it off when done.
    Ofgift

  • Tucson, AZ · Member since 2008 · 945 posts · 45 votes
    17y

    They removed the door and steel frame of both front and back entrances, painted them to match the rest of the bars, and rehung them. The front door works better now, the back doesn't.
    Ofgift

  • Real Estate Investor · Baroda, MI · Member since 2008 · 204 posts · 2 votes
    17y

    Ok. I see. If they just rehung the door tell them to fix the back door lock at no charge (since you have already paid for the service you expect it installed properly).

    Generally you do not have to shut off the valve to the washer. I have never heard of anyone doing that unless they have a leak.

    Though it is easy for me to say this because my hubby is a contractor, I say if it's rusty, have it fixed. Call a plumber to do that for you.

  • Member since 2009 · 499 posts · 117 votes
    17y

    are you SURE the latch is ABLE to extend into the jamb?? Is it too high or low? is it to close or far from the hole??

  • Tucson, AZ · Member since 2008 · 945 posts · 45 votes
    17y
    Originally posted by Just Don:
    are you SURE the latch is ABLE to extend into the jamb?? Is it too high or low? is it to close or far from the hole??

    It was before they removed the door to paint. I had the boss man look at it. He filed the faceplate a little, thinking the (not knowing the names of the parts stinks!) the one shaft is not clearing it. He also suggested it needs WD40, maybe it works in the heat of the day, not in the cold of the night. Maybe he's right. It was working today--but not last night. I'll watch that. Seems it would need graphite, not WD40, right?
    ofgift
  • Plumbing Contractor · rutherfordton, NC · Member since 2008 · 66 posts · 0 votes
    17y

    mr gift, your plumbing problem isnt a problem at all. replacing the valve assembly is not required, and if you do, you will have to cut sheetrock under the plastic box as this is how they are connected from factory. but it seems that the washer hose is the problem...either the hose want tightened down all the way and had a slow drip, or the rubber washer in the hose needs to be replaced and can be picked up at any home/hardware store. i would doubt seriously that you have water issues inside the wall....btw, i am a nc licensed plumber...hope this helps, ask any time!

  • Tucson, AZ · Member since 2008 · 945 posts · 45 votes
    17y

    Thanks, Mr. Duncan. The plumber is coming in a few hours--Mon AM. He will check the water heater first. I'm getting warm water only if the knob is turned almost to the far side, then suddenly it's hot if it's totally to the side.
    He'll check that valve, too. It's probably okay. I do hope it does not need replaced.
    Ofgift

  • Tucson, AZ · Member since 2008 · 945 posts · 45 votes
    17y
    Originally posted by Chevis Duncan:
    mr gift, your plumbing problem isnt a problem at all. replacing the valve assembly is not required, and if you do, you will have to cut sheetrock under the plastic box as this is how they are connected from factory. but it seems that the washer hose is the problem...either the hose want tightened down all the way and had a slow drip, or the rubber washer in the hose needs to be replaced and can be picked up at any home/hardware store. i would doubt seriously that you have water issues inside the wall....btw, i am a nc licensed plumber...hope this helps, ask any time!

    The plumber did tighten the hoses, which have not given trouble previously--I brought them with me. The leak was still there. He did cut the wall and put on individual valves.
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