Skip to content
×
PRO
Pro Members Get Full Access!
Get off the sidelines and take action in real estate investing with BiggerPockets Pro. Our comprehensive suite of tools and resources minimize mistakes, support informed decisions, and propel you to success.
Advanced networking features
Market and Deal Finder tools
Property analysis calculators
Landlord Command Center
$0
TODAY
$69.00/month when billed monthly.
$32.50/month when billed annually.
7 day free trial. Cancel anytime
Already a Pro Member? Sign in here

Join Over 3 Million Real Estate Investors

Create a free BiggerPockets account to comment, participate, and connect with over 3 million real estate investors.
Use your real name
By signing up, you indicate that you agree to the BiggerPockets Terms & Conditions.
The community here is like my own little personal real estate army that I can depend upon to help me through ANY problems I come across.
Rehabbing & House Flipping
All Forum Categories
Followed Discussions
Followed Categories
Followed People
Followed Locations
Market News & Data
General Info
Real Estate Strategies
Landlording & Rental Properties
Real Estate Professionals
Financial, Tax, & Legal
Real Estate Classifieds
Reviews & Feedback

Updated over 9 years ago, 04/30/2015

User Stats

55
Posts
13
Votes
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
13
Votes |
55
Posts

Pre-hing door issues

Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
Posted

Hey Everyone

I am fairly new to carpentry and having an issue hanging pre hung doors. For some reason I can't get the hinge side gap and the strike side gap to be consistent with each other. Individually each side is consistent but the strike side gap is roughly an 1/8 inch bigger than the hinge side gap. Do you guys have any suggestions? I made sure the hinge side was plumb prior to fastening so I am not really sure what is going wrong.

User Stats

1,117
Posts
417
Votes
Bryan N.
  • Investor
  • Hampton Roads, VA
417
Votes |
1,117
Posts
Bryan N.
  • Investor
  • Hampton Roads, VA
Replied

If the door closes normally and it's not noticeable then your good.  You could always rip cut a board and increase the strike side "trim" to hide the gap if it's that bad.  Or increase the trim size of the whole door. 

User Stats

97
Posts
23
Votes
Debra R.
  • Redford, MI
23
Votes |
97
Posts
Debra R.
  • Redford, MI
Replied

I'm with Bryan.  If it can be hidden with trim- hide it.  :)

BiggerPockets logo
Join Our Private Community for Passive Investors
|
BiggerPockets
Get first-hand insights and real sponsor reviews from other investors

User Stats

22,059
Posts
14,124
Votes
Jon Holdman
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Mercer Island, WA
14,124
Votes |
22,059
Posts
Jon Holdman
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Mercer Island, WA
ModeratorReplied

Your rough opening (the 2x4s) should be about a half inch to an inch larger than the outside of your pre-hung door unit.   I start with the hinge side.  If I've done a good job on framing, that side will be plumb in both directions and I can just nail up the hinge jamb.  Just a couple of nails at this point.  You want to also check the floor.   You might have to shim the hinge side off the floor, if the knob side is higher.  Or trim the jambs down a little.

Now, with the hinge side tacked in place, go to the knob side.  Here you'll have to shim it away from the framing.  Use shims in pairs so the outsides are parallel.  Get the shims in place so the jamb ends up with a uniform gap between the door and jamb.  You want to be sure you have shims above and below the strike plate so its solidly in place.  You may also have to shim up or trim the bottom of the jamb so there's a uniform gap at the top of the door.

If things go badly, use your sawzall to cut the nails out and start over.

User Stats

13
Posts
7
Votes
David Tomich
  • Investor
  • Flagstaff, AZ
7
Votes |
13
Posts
David Tomich
  • Investor
  • Flagstaff, AZ
Replied

@Jon Holdman is spot on.  I use basically the same approach.  YouTube probably has lots of videos on hanging doors.

User Stats

55
Posts
13
Votes
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
13
Votes |
55
Posts
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
Replied

thanks for your suggestions everyone. I guess there is no one right answer on whether the hinge gap (between the door and jamb) and the strike jamb should be consistent with each other. 

User Stats

5,116
Posts
5,168
Votes
Kyle J.
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Northern, CA
5,168
Votes |
5,116
Posts
Kyle J.
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Northern, CA
Replied
Originally posted by @Gregory Massi:

Hey Everyone

I am fairly new to carpentry and having an issue hanging pre hung doors. For some reason I can't get the hinge side gap and the strike side gap to be consistent with each other. Individually each side is consistent but the strike side gap is roughly an 1/8 inch bigger than the hinge side gap. Do you guys have any suggestions? I made sure the hinge side was plumb prior to fastening so I am not really sure what is going wrong.

Are you saying there's an extra 1/8" gap between the jamb on the strike side and the adjacent 2x4 framing?  If so, that shouldn't be a big deal.  I assume the door closes properly?  The gap will be covered up when you put the casing up.

User Stats

55
Posts
13
Votes
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
13
Votes |
55
Posts
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
Replied

i guess I wasn't clear, sorry about that. I was talking about the gap between the jamb and the door.

User Stats

22,059
Posts
14,124
Votes
Jon Holdman
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Mercer Island, WA
14,124
Votes |
22,059
Posts
Jon Holdman
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Mercer Island, WA
ModeratorReplied

The gap should be nearly uniform all the way around, except the bottom.  It should certainly be uniform on each of the sides and top.  Shims are your friend.  Use them liberally.  If I'd done well on the framing, I don't need any on the hinge side.  But on the knob side, I'll typically use six pairs.  A pair at the top, another at the bottom.  A pair just above and just below the strike plate. Then another pair above and below the strike plate, midway between the first pairs of pairs.  You want this edge to be solidly attached and you don't want to nail "over air".  That is, anywhere you nail the jamb to the framing you need to be going through shims, not through a gap.  A properly hung door would have a nice uniform gap all around and can be placed in any position and stay there.  If the door opens or closes on its own, rip it out and start over.

User Stats

55
Posts
13
Votes
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
13
Votes |
55
Posts
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
Replied

thanks everyone! 

User Stats

55
Posts
13
Votes
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
13
Votes |
55
Posts
Gregory Massi
  • Investor
  • Mahopac, NY
Replied
Originally posted by @Jon Holdman:

The gap should be nearly uniform all the way around, except the bottom.  It should certainly be uniform on each of the sides and top.  Shims are your friend.  Use them liberally.  If I'd done well on the framing, I don't need any on the hinge side.  But on the knob side, I'll typically use six pairs.  A pair at the top, another at the bottom.  A pair just above and just below the strike plate. Then another pair above and below the strike plate, midway between the first pairs of pairs.  You want this edge to be solidly attached and you don't want to nail "over air".  That is, anywhere you nail the jamb to the framing you need to be going through shims, not through a gap.  A properly hung door would have a nice uniform gap all around and can be placed in any position and stay there.  If the door opens or closes on its own, rip it out and start over.

 Hi Jon - what door brands do you prefer?

User Stats

22,059
Posts
14,124
Votes
Jon Holdman
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Mercer Island, WA
14,124
Votes |
22,059
Posts
Jon Holdman
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Mercer Island, WA
ModeratorReplied

I don't have any particular preference.

User Stats

160
Posts
24
Votes
Adam Anderson
  • General Contractor
  • Midland, TX
24
Votes |
160
Posts
Adam Anderson
  • General Contractor
  • Midland, TX
Replied

Two other options

1) Put a 1/16" spacer behind either the hinges on the door OR the hinges on the frame.

2) Put  1/32" spacer behind the hinges on the door AND the hinges on the frame

This will shift your door 1/16" toward the the strike and even out your 1/8" gap difference

Personally I don't think anyone is going to ever notice a 1/8" difference.

BiggerPockets logo
BiggerPockets
|
Sponsored
Find an investor-friendly agent in your market TODAY Get matched with our network of trusted, local, investor friendly agents in under 2 minutes