Self Storage- Boat/Vehicle/RV storage

[Henry Clark]

@ R follow up on separate post.  How to pick a location.  Also showing you customer considerations.  Use this as you plan your location.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR RV OR VEHICLE STORAGE

A. Pull through- The front, pull as far forward as possible, gives the person next to you an easier angle to turn into, from behind you. Align your front with the fronts of all other vehicles. Be courteous and leave enough room on the Driver side, so that RV can open their doors.

B. Back to back parking- our locations are set up at 60 degree parking. Also, they are setup for the driver to back in on their side, so they can use the lot next to them for alignment. This way you only have one blind side on the right side backing in. Otherwise you have two blind sides.

We have 20/30/40 foot parking at our location at xxxxxx. Each size has a different width due to how hard it is to park a longer unit at the very front angle of their turn in. 20’s- 10 wide; 30’s- 12 wide; 40’s- 15 wide. Although you could park an RV in any of these sizes, it is easier with a wider width to make the “front” turn. Or ask for an end parking spot, so you are doing a 90 degree parking, but have the whole drive way to back in with, without a turn.

C. Canopy- same issues as others, depending on if 60 degree or 90 degree parking.

D. Enclosed- Really a matter of width and depth. Keep in mind all measurements for storage are relative. For example: A 10 wide x 20 deep x 8 tall unit, with studs, roll up door and door jambs; is really 9 wide x 19 ft 6 inch deep x 7 ½ foot tall. Also if you have a 20 ft boat or Camper, its really 22/23/24 ft depending on Propeller, bumper or front hitch.

E. Surface- Rock or hard surface (concrete/asphalt); If on rock/asphalt put your tongue leg or stabilizer pads on wider pads to spread the weight out. These pads are needed on Asphalt since in hot weather they will sink into the asphalt.

F. Pest control- we put mouse bait out along the fence lines and under the units, mow excess weeds and grass. You should put both rodent and bug control in your unit. Dispose of all food sources, for long term storage. If you want to be really diligent with pest control, don’t park next to overhead lights. They attract bugs at night and then mice underneath. Put scented drier sheets in all compartments and rooms. Open all cabinets and doors.

G. Stabilizers- if doing long term storage put you stabilizers down. Most parking is in an open area and the units can rock and move with the wind. This will also help with taking pressure off your tires so they last longer.

H. Security- Put a lock on the hitch. Although you are in a secure location, RV’s and trailers are the easiest storage to break into or take without notice. Recommend you put in motion sensors or GPS tracking security. Check your vehicle at least twice a month. Most Security systems only maintain footage for 2 weeks due to camera memory capacity.

I. Propane Fuel Tanks- disconnect and store if leaving for long term storage.

J. Electronic Lifts- disconnect the battery if leaving for long term storage.

K. Insurance- most storage unit insurance policies do not cover vehicles. Keep your insurance, just have them adjust your automobile to fewer miles or just comprehensive coverage. Wind, Flood, tornado, Hail, or third party damage or theft can still occur. Traditional insurance coverage, RV’s normally stay a flat rate throughout the year, thus you will still need to maintain full coverage. Or, if you seek out a specific RV or rec vehicle insurance company, you can move in and out of winterization rates.

L. Pricing- use a 30 foot vehicle as an example:

-In the country about a $1 per foot on rock.

-With Paved access and parking spot, this might run $60 to $90

- Enclosed parking this will cost about $120 to $170 for a 30 foot.

- Enclosed parking for a 50 foot, might cost $225 to $350.

The price extremes are the cost of the concrete/asphalt road and the storage bay. Also the longer the unit the price goes up significantly because it takes more driveway width to park and the type of door changes in both size and type (remote operated). A 50 ft RV will require about a 70 foot wide driveway to back in.

We are only addressing the long term Parking portion of storage. Other items are specific to each vehicle such as water clean out, Tire/window shades, etc.

Quick non Parking list:

Wheel/tire covers; Vehicle cover.

Remove and store your tires.

Store with a full fuel tank to prevent condensation

Add fuel stabilizers

Place RV completely off the ground to prevent flat spots on your tires, if left for a long time.

Cover your HVAC, skylights, vents and windows to prevent exposure to sun and breakdown.

Boats leave your plug out, whether covered or not.

Site selection and Site building:

Surface, Canopy, Enclosed.

• Just talking Surface, not enclosed. 
  
  Have run the numbers about 10 times on Enclosed, but I would have to charge $225 to $350 per month and don't have that market here. Have only seen one location on the interstate near Oklahoma City that had that market ($150,000 to $500,000 RV's) and they were full. They have a lot of $1mm homes and lakes nearby. You have to do Concierge services for that market. Battery charger, turn fridge on before trips, Dump station, Concierge parking service, Tire/Oil/etc check, Big drive ways, electric in each unit, etc.
  
  Canopy, I have seen in Texas. Cant say much, haven't researched it.
  
  I have been in two other models. Old welding shop with 40 foot roofs. Spots are "crammed in". They park and  unpark for you.
  Another, is winter only. You go "in" the fall and everyone comes "out" the same time in the spring. They also have a lot of outside spaces. Both of these models were full.
  
  Attached below is an Inventory list of an exact 2 acre parking lot we have. Also the row configuration. See cut and past below.    Back to Back parking to use less driveways, even though everyone would prefer "drive through" parking.
  
  Might not apply if your on concrete, which would be great, but I'll throw these out anyway.
  Its on rock. Use 1 1/2 inch with "Fines". Cost about $20,000 for rock delivered.
  Put Geogrid underneath, so no potholes after 4 years. Otherwise, you need to put a base of 3 inch rock first, then the 1 1/2 with fines. Be careful if you blade snow.
  Payback is about 12 years.
  Not the best use of the land, but didn't need it at the time for storage.
  Put at 60 degree angle, otherwise you get a lot less spaces, since your driveways have to be wider. Example: If you do 90 degrees parking on a 50 foot space, you might need a 70 foot driveway. Also 60 degrees makes it easy for the driver. Also put the 60 degrees turn on the driver side window so they can see the turn.
  Put a Wire and posts down the middle of the shared back to back parking so vehicles stay on their side. Used other posts, stakes, number signs (reflective) to define each space.
  Mix. Went with even surface area for 20/30/40 foot spaces. Did not do any 50's for large RV's. Where we are at, most RV's are in the $10,000 to $70,000 range. Actually worked out pretty good. The 20's have a few vacancies.
  Price $20/$30/$40. This is in a 10,000 population community with about 4 no wake lakes to the East within 60 miles. Prices could be higher, but= No city restrictions on vehicles, which would increase your market. Plus we are in the country, where you can find a friend to park.
  Run light and security camera poles first.
  Definitely put a "License Plate" specific camera at a narrow point and other cameras and lights at that bottleneck. Our spot is fenced off from the Storage location, with one access point, no gate there. Recommend your NVR has a timeline with Red markers for motion on your cameras.
  Layout and capacity really depends on the lot shape. The same two acres, could probably get about 30% more if it was a rectangle versus a square, due to less turnarounds.
  
  
• Site selection:
• a.  Near two way intersection or cross light.
• b.  On the way to entertainment area.  Preferably out of city limits, so land and regs are cheaper.
• c.  Near the city or near the water.  Look at your hurricane impact.  You might prefer closer to the city, versus the water.
• d.  Level.
• e.  Preferably on the Right side of the highway or interstate on the way to the water.  Also after you get off the exit, a right turn back towards the city.  That way people see you prior to the off ramp.  
• Attachment:
  This is a relaxed layout, I did not try to cram the spaces in.
  

  Rows and Road Configuration
  A	Road	B	C	Road	D	E	Road	F
  This layout is on a 2 acre square.
  Roads are all the same width.
  All rows are set at 45 degree angles

  Unit	Description	Row:
  G001	1x20x1	A
  G002	1x20x1	A
  G003	1x20x1	A
  G004	1x20x1	A
  G005	1x20x1	A
  G006	1x20x1	A
  G007	1x20x1	A
  G008	1x20x1	A
  G009	1x20x1	A
  G010	1x20x1	A
  G011	1x20x1	A
  G012	1x20x1	A
  G013	1x20x1	A
  G014	1x20x1	A
  G015	1x20x1	A
  G016	1x20x1	B
  G017	1x20x1	B
  G018	1x20x1	B
  G019	1x20x1	B
  G020	1x20x1	B
  G021	1x20x1	B
  G022	1x20x1	B
  G023	1x20x1	B
  G024	1x20x1	B
  G025	1x20x1	B
  G026	1x20x1	B
  G027	1x20x1	B
  G028	1x20x1	B
  G029	1x20x1	B
  G030	1x20x1	B
  G031	1x30x1	C
  G032	1x30x1	C
  G033	1x30x1	C
  G034	1x30x1	C
  G035	1x30x1	C
  G036	1x30x1	C
  G037	1x30x1	C
  G038	1x30x1	C
  G039	1x30x1	C
  G040	1x30x1	C
  G041	1x30x1	C
  G042	1x30x1	C
  G043	1x30x1	C
  G044	1x30x1	C
  G045	1x30x1	C
  G047	1x40x1	D
  G048	1x40x1	D
  G049	1x40x1	D
  G050	1x40x1	D
  G051	1x40x1	D
  G052	1x40x1	D
  G053	1x40x1	D
  G054	1x40x1	D
  G055	1x40x1	D
  G056	1x40x1	D
  G057	1x40x1	D
  G058	1x40x1	D
  G059	1x40x1	D
  G060	1x30x1	E
  G061	1x30x1	E
  G062	1x30x1	E
  G063	1x30x1	E
  G064	1x30x1	E
  G065	1x30x1	E
  G066	1x30x1	E
  G067	1x30x1	E
  G068	1x30x1	E
  G069	1x30x1	E
  G070	1x30x1	E
  G071	1x30x1	E
  G072	1x40x1	F
  G073	1x40x1	F
  G074	1x40x1	F
  G075	1x40x1	F
  G076	1x40x1	F
  G077	1x40x1	F
  G078	1x40x1	F
  G079	1x40x1	F
  G080	1x40x1	F
  G081	1x40x1	F
  G082	1x40x1	F
  G083	1x40x1	F
  G084	1x40x1	F
  G085	1x40x1	F
  G086	1x40x1	F
  G087	1x40x1	F
  G088	1x40x1	F
  G089	1x40x1	F

[Henry Clark]

@ R, forgot.  If we ever meet in Florida, you owe me lunch.  Key Lime pie and a Biminy bread sandwich; with a Red.

[Henry Clark]

@R, for your specific location, recommend you check the following areas for a site.  Again it is a question of zoning, cost, and entertainment flow.  Where you are at, is fine also.

Try outside the 696 and 275 loop.  Along I 96 and I 75.  Looks like that is the major routes out of the city to the lake areas.  You actually don't need a town.  Just a good on/off intersection, in the middle of nowhere.  Those people really don't want to haul their RV's and Boats back to Detroit on a Sunday traffic jam.  Further out you are, the better.  

Don't know your lake effect snow impact.  You really have to consider Snow removal.

Lived two years in Grandhaven/Springlake/Muskegon area.  Terrible snow.

[Ryan York]

@Henry Clark Henry, somehow I missed all of these reponses. Thanks a lot for the info. Been reading all of your posts. It's great stuff! 

As for lunch, definitely! 

How are you projects coming?

[Ryan York]

@Henry Clark We're in hot pursuit of a new lot. What are your thoughts on this layout? it's roughly 7.5 acres total and would be a combination of boat/RV storage and janus MASS units. 

Green = 45x13 units

Orange = 40x12 units

Pink = 30x12 units

Green blocks in phase 2 are Janus MASS units. 10x20 portable storage units. Can fit 5 of those side by side in the middle rows and 6 in the end rows. Those are also back to back in the middle. 

Entrance is the white block in the bottom left. 

Transparent white with green border is phase 1.

Transparent black (top right) is phase 2.

Transparent white with purple border is phase 2/3. We would decide on this based on the demand for our phase 1 units.  

[Henry Clark]

Just weather questions.  

Where to move snow.

Orientation- might not be an option, but a north south orientation allows the sun to help melt the snow. If east to west, then the north side of the buildings or units won't melt easily.

Did you go with closer to the population or closer to the resort area?  Or could do both.  People hate dragging their RV's back to town on crowded Sundays.

Good luck.  If you do rock surface check out using Engineering fabric underneath.

[Henry Clark]

@Ryan York

Forgot to mention, your orange 40 x 12 parking spots.  I would turn the orientation from left to right; to right to left.  This allows the driver to have the next unit on their left shoulder or mirror.  Thus they only have one blind spot versus two, backing up.  You did it because your trying to keep traffic flow, flowing the same way, but don't worry about it, they will figure it out.

Do you plan to have night lights or security cameras.  If so, recommend you build into the parking spots up front.  Shouldn't impact your spacing.

[Ryan York]

@Henry Clark Thanks for the reply! Almost through all of your posts! Easily the most practical and valuable info I've found online. I'm willing to splurge on an appetizer at lunch now too. 

I should've mentioned this in my post. We will be in a warm weather climate - Arizona - so no snow. 

A few thoughts/replies:

1. Regarding rock surface - We definitely plan to do rock/gravel for phase 1 at least. We may pave the ground beneath the portable storage units if necessary, but the boat/RV will be rock/gravel. Will check out the fabric. Any other tips here? I saw a couple estimates for rock in your posts. Do you have an updated estimate for this cost? Maybe per acre assuming flat ground already. 

2. It is closer to population than recreation - roughly 50k population

3. Regarding orientation - great to know. I felt stupid not being able to figure out how you were getting driver side turns on both sides, unless they went in forward. So just nix the one way streets, eh? 

4. Regarding lights - Yes, plan to have light poles. Saw your estimate for these as well. Any tips here on spacing? I was looking at basically the cheapest option - https://www.ledspot.com/parkin...- 20-ft LED 150W with one square light for like $750. Any reason this wouldn't work, or reason to use the double light? 

5. Security - yes definitely. Will have the plate reader up front, on entrance I assume would be the best place. And then security cameras throughout. When you say build into the spots up front, are you saying there's no need to have them elsewhere? 

6. Any idea on cost to build that dump station and/or washing area? I've seen some pretty extravagant wash areas. 

[Henry Clark]

@Ryan York

items above:

1.  A dump truck usually hauls 10 to 12 Cubic yards.  Depends on your soil type and moisture.  Usually you would put down 3 inch clean rock for a base.  Roll it in.  Them come back with 3 inches of "1 inch and fines" for a smooth surface.  If you use the fabric just do the 1 inch fines.  Take cubic yards and convert to 3 inch coverage.  Take this against the sq ft in an acre.  This will get you to your number.  About $10,000 for the rock over one acre for here.  Call there and get cost per ton.  Stay away from Asphalt in Arizona as a surface.  To soft in the summer.

2.  50k population is probably not millionaires.  For Enclosed RV storage, you have to charge around $225 to $350 per month to make it work.  Only people with $250,000 to $1,000,000 RV Class A homes will pay that.  Unless your within 30 miles of this type of market.  Self storage market is usually 1 to 3 miles.  RV storage market is up to 30 miles.  So you will probably go with surface or canopy parking.  Probably Canopy in Arizona due to the sun.

3.  Lay your parking out on the ground with strings and push in stakes.  Then get a large vehicle and drive around and park.  Get the "feel" of the layout before you commit to the set up.  Mix- we went with an even mix of 20/30/40 foot spaces.  We did not make any spaces for 50 foot since this is a limited market.

4.  Lay your poles out in the middle of the rows.  They have to be tall enough to see over the closest RVs.  Put two cameras and two lights on them.  Trench underground electric and cables as you lay out facility.  Two lights on the pole is to get better coverage.

5.  The license plate reading cameras are specially built just for that.  Don't let your security guy sell you "Great" cameras, they won't work.  Has to be able to see through headlights and taillights.  Best mounted about 8 to 10 feet off the ground, at a slight angle to the vehicle lights.  If you want to, you can have the cameras send you a message when someone passes through.

6.  Wouldn't do dump or wash station unless your going primo.  Enclosed, concierge service- plug in before trips, tire checks, dump/wash station, vehicle washing, Parking service, etc.

RV/Boat storage is a low return project.  Make sure you don't have a great business analysis for this.  Should have a 12 to 15 year payback or longer.  "Unless" the market is a lot better down there due to "snow birds".

Good luck.

[Henry Clark]

@Ryan York

Here are some pics.  Has Two lights.  Looks like an airport at night.  Very bright.

Has two cameras.  The Box in the middle is a transmitter back to the Camera NRV.

[Terry Royce]

A little late to this thread, but it came up in a google search.
How are you guys partitioning off your parking?
I'm in a rural area and rates are low, so I am looking to keep it simple and cheap!

Thanks.