Moving a house??

[Caleb Math]

Hey folks, I'm new to BP (first post). I have a opportunity coming up to move a house onto a nearby piece of property I own. The house is 1200sqft 3bd/1bath, it's fully updated (kitchen and bath) has hardwood floors, new Hvac, vinyl siding, metal roof, and windows all within the last 2 to 3 years. Also, the inside is immaculate. It is currently on a commercial piece of property and after getting quoted to move it for 11k I got the house under contract for $7500. 

I figure I'll have around 25-30 in it once it's moved and completely hooked up (septic, water, crawl space, Hvac, electrical, etc) my county has a 250.00 septic fee and a 75$ building permit fee for moving the house. I am really trying to think through the situation and get in front of any problems that might arise before the move. Any suggestions would be much appreciated! 

Here is some extra info...

The house movers have assured me that this will go smoothly, as my farm is connected to the commercial property and they are only moving it 500 yards or so (no power lines etx). They say I should only have hairline cracks around the windows and doors that are easily fixed. I have called many other house movers and this seems to be the norm apparently, I would have thought there would be more damage. I am taking the Hvac and everything else of value as well. I am digging my own septic (which is allowed where we live) and am wanting to dig my own footers but am a bit weary of that, so I am still thinking that through. 

Anyway, any help is much appreciated.

[Tim Olsen]

When I keep a house for myself I spend a lot more time with the preparations. Meaning, the point at which you separate the plumbing and heating and electrical can cost you a LOT more. There is a ton to separate and it is real easy to run through with a sledge hammer and sawzall and cut way too much.
Where it was built in 2000 most of your wiring should be up to code but may need a few AFCIs and GFCIs added. Some counties/ cities will allow Certain parts or the house that are existing no to be brought up to modern code. The worst one is usually insulation. As a lot of older homes are 2by4 framing and depending what part of the country you are in may need R19 which is very difficult without removing the siding. Also, I have had some inspectors make me change windows simply because they weren’t labeled to ensure they met modern code.
If plumbing is galvanized we just convert to pex. If you don’t want to hurt your shower. Just get as close as you can and put an adapter on, you will still pressure test to the shower valve. We usually separate the sewer lines so we can just add some couplers and put it right back.
Take some time with the HVAC as we usually leave all the ductwork down the middle and put it right back up when we get there since it already fits the house.
Most of your costs will be getting all your utilities to the house at the new location. Of course permits and excavation but also just the cost of the hookups if you are on city water and sewer+ the contractors to hook them up. We have had our electrical cost shoot up pretty high for a few reasons like maybe the transformer in the area wasn’t enough to handle another service or maybe they had to bring it over or under the street so be sure to get as firm of a number from the electrical company that you can.
The best advice I can give is to remember. You have a house from 2000 not from 2018. I guess that applies to any flip but the guys that do moved houses regularly just put them back together and remember that is the house they bought so why treat it apart and haul most of it to the dump.
Sounds like you finance them the way we finance them. HML and either sell or refinance.
Other parts of the country may be different but we have always been able to get full value at resale. It is similar to people that buy a house with a foundation repair. Some worry and some don’t so just disclose it up front and that way you will get a serious buyer a lot faster. If you get a buyer on the fence just have them call the mover and if they are a good house mover they will have no problems letting them know the houses don’t have any structural damage. I have moved HUNDREDS of buildings and none of them have had the structure compromised.
You should expect a few small cracks mostly above the doors and windows. They may even go along the support walls after it is set and level up your doors if needed.
Hope this helps, let me know if I missed anything or if you have anymore questions.