Single Family Houses built in the 1960a

Single Family Houses built in the 1960a

Investor · Lithonia, GA · Member since 2012 · 231 posts · 43 votes

Hi all,

For SFH built in the 1960's, what are some things I should be weary of when purchasing a house of that age?

Best,

Chudi

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Investor · Knightdale, NC · Member since 2014 · 122 posts · 74 votes
9y
Be happy about the "good bones" though. Back then they used "rough cut" 2x4 which actually measure 2" by 4" and 2x10 and 2x8 etc etc Go to Lowe's and measure their "2x4" and you'll see they're fibbing.
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  • Titusville, FL · Member since 2016 · 55 posts · 40 votes
    9y
    flat portions of the roof, aluminum wiring, Federal Pacific Electrical Service panels (if they are part of the NJ class action), corroded cast iron DWV pipes, pink or lime green bathroom tile, aluminum single pane windows.
  • Investor · Lithonia, GA · Member since 2012 · 231 posts · 43 votes
    9y

    @malcolm Thanks for the input. What would the problem be with aluminum wiring? and single pane windows and cast iron DWV pipes?

  • JD MartinBusiness Member
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    Rock Star Extraordinaire · Northeast, TN · Member since 2015 · 10k+ posts · 16k+ votes
    9y

    Asbestos floor tiles, asbestos ceiling popcorn, asbestos furnace duct wrapping. Galvanized steel plumbing, existing knob & tube wiring, undersized electrical panels (smaller than 200 amp). Those would be some things that would jump out at me. 

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  • Investor · Cumberland, IN · Member since 2017 · 9 posts · 2 votes
    9y
    Aluminum wiring connections tend to loosen over time and can become a fire hazard.
  • Manchester, TN · Member since 2017 · 13 posts · 7 votes
    9y

    @Chukwudi Motanya cast iron pipes! I've had to replace  plenty. If your not doing it yourself your looking at about 1k-1.5k to replace. 

  • NYC, NY · Member since 2016 · 617 posts · 456 votes
    9y

    Asbestos wrapped pipes and floor tiles, vermiculite insulation, mold

  • Dallas, TX · Member since 2016 · 1k+ posts · 745 votes
    9y
    The problem with aluminum is it's often connected to Copper and the two metals interact leaving a poor connection between the two that can end up as a fire bazaars. The aluminum itself Is perfectly safe if it is terminated correctly.
  • Investor · Lithonia, GA · Member since 2012 · 231 posts · 43 votes
    9y

    thank you all this is amazing information. So basically do not skip inspection process of this house 

  • Investor · Knightdale, NC · Member since 2014 · 122 posts · 74 votes
    9y
    Be happy about the "good bones" though. Back then they used "rough cut" 2x4 which actually measure 2" by 4" and 2x10 and 2x8 etc etc Go to Lowe's and measure their "2x4" and you'll see they're fibbing.
  • Rental Property Investor · St. Petersburg, FL · Member since 2017 · 3k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    9y
    lead paint
  • Titusville, FL · Member since 2016 · 55 posts · 40 votes
    9y

    Flat roofs will require regular resealing.  Best to reroof with tapered foam.

    Aluminum wire is ok if properly pigtailed to copper.  Unfortunately if you want to sell the house you will need to document the rework with the proper crimps permits and inspections.  Electricians will charge $100 per receptacle minimum.  Also, you need to be aware that 1960s era electrical boxes may not meet modern box fill requirements.  

    Corroded cast iron DWV pipes require replacement with PVC.  This requires jackhammering a slab on grade, laying new drain pipe, pouring new concrete.  Might as well replace your water supply pipe while the slab is open too.

    Not a dealbreaker but you should get a thorough inspection to include DWV video out to the sewer and your bid should reflect these costs.  

  • Investor · Atlanta, GA · Member since 2015 · 366 posts · 283 votes
    9y
    I agree with the comments about flat roofs, corroded pipes, and outdated electrical panels. I've dealt with them all :( That said, definitely NOT deal breakers if you buy a solid house at the right price. I bought a 1960s bungalow 2 yrs ago with the old knob electrical panel and was warned that I should replace it ASAP - planned to, but it hasn't given any problems until last week, my handyman fixed the issue in 15 mins and it cost me $25. I'm planning to replace the panel soon tho and was quoted ~$900 to do so. My point in sharing that is that the house was an absolute steal, so spending $925 to upgrade the electrical isn't a big deal. Other issues to look out for: asbestos siding - in GA that can make it hard to get/keep insurance. Other states it may not be an issue. Also check to see if there are outlets in the bathrooms - some old houses don't have them and that is a pain for tenants. Don't worry about the pink and blue tiles, it doesn't cost a ton to get the tile glazed White if the colors are really offensive.
  • Dallas, TX · Member since 2016 · 1k+ posts · 745 votes
    9y

    I Would change out knob and tube, as an old utility guy, it scares me. Its basically uninsulated wires running thru your house hung from conductors inside the walls, throw in some sawdust insulation or something else that sparks a fire in the walls of the house.  No thank you.  Its coming out in any property we own.

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