In my city, for example, once electricity has been disconnected from a unit for 12 months or more an entire new electrical inspection is required before you can get utilities turned on.

Maybe your energy costs are substantially different.For each unit to feed electrical, you'll have the cost of copper (usually 30A - 40A wire at minimum) to feed a disconnect, and then the cost of the disconnect, and of course the labor.With economies of scale I'd think you're a little high, however this totally depends on your application. 

What I noticed on this particular street is that most of the neighbors own their home, very few bars are on the windows and lastly the local power company is almost never on this street disconnecting and reconnecting services.

Also from my limited trial of some of the crowdfunding sites, I believe you're disconnected from the deal sponsors and don't have directed access to them. 

Maybe there was a lot of disconnect between my thought process and skill because I only gave a very broad overview.

Depending on how bad is the foundation state (how many inches you have to correct), is very possible the sewer line will disconnect/break in the horizontal portions.

There may be a battery backup so it could make noise even after you disconnect the power (but 15 years is pretty old for it to still work).

Remove the burner/pilot/thermocouple assembly (3 wrenches), disconnect the gas connection (1 wrench), unscrew the assembly (b.f. pipe wrench) and pull it out. 

Since then, the tenants phone number has been disconnected, he's never answered his door, or notes attached to the door.Finally, we posted a ten-day notice to quit on his door.

You might get away with installing the new mini-split system upstairs and disconnecting all the vents so the furnace/ac only works downstairs.