Heating cables can be one of two types:-thermostatically and/or moisture controlled, when the temperature hits a certain temperature and there is moisture in the gutter (near the sensor) it turns on.

True enough I discovered that the roof obviously had several leaks and a bunch of moisture got inside and has caused a strong hazardous presence of mold!

Would you know what the cost is with Ground Penetrating Radar technology?

A little further down, there's a section with substantial root penetration.

He didn't say.The first thing that I would check for is signs of moisture, leaks, etc.

By design, this water is always designed to drain to the outside via some drain.Some amount of this collected water is often designed to be thrown up on the hot coil on the outer side as the fan blows air through it for cooling.So your problem is one of not operating properly because:1) The outside drain is clogged.2) the pan drainage from front to back is clogged.3) the pan is improperly slanted toward the front rather than to the rearThe moisture collecting on the filter will aggravate the function by causing the front coil to ice over.If you are not a DIY type, a HVAC type should be able to fix your problem.Cheers, Buddy

I have a basement that has a very low rate of moisture influx thru the cement.

If the inspections come back as lots of structural and moisture damage I will raise my bid to 500 after (PITI/PM) per house or back out. 

The base plate 2x4 is 40% water ( I have a moisture meter).

Here are somethings I have dealt with on mine:Sealing baesment walls from moisture; jacking up original porch to keep it from pulling away from building and causing damage, jacking up floor supports that were sagging, and converting fuse boxes to breaker boxes; tenants installing window a/c units then damaging the window frames with water rot.