Instead of pulling heat out of attic, you'll be removing moisture from under house.

Definitely check the things on your list, plus I would add to look for any water penetration, termites, check the windows and the structural integrity (foundation, floor joists, framing, any bowing walls, sagging floors, dry rot, etc.).

That removed most of the settling that had occurred.I would not expect framing damage to extend much past the wall around and below the windows,  but it just depends on how severe the moisture intrusion was and how long it went on, and also the age of the building is a factor as that may affect what types of wood and other materials were used,  different kinds of wood handle moisture and rot better than others.   

The house I recently bought (cinderblock foundation) had moisture on the walls in one corner which we noticed during the home inspection (it had rained the night before).

Stuff like moisture invasion does NOT get cheaper by waiting to fix it.What you're going to fight is a buyer thinking you're trying to sell services and over-emphasizing some problems - It's not you, just buyers.Only thing I'd say from looking at similar things is if it's a 1-page report and 10 pages of ads, that doesn't go over well. 

It is also a mixed bag of results regarding using any underlay and moisture barrier. 

I've bought and flipped/rented in Florida while living in Nevada (among other states as well), and each location has its differences, not a lot of moisture in Nevada, but tons of it in FL as well as termites. 

I had the sewer pipes inspected and sure enough, the Orangeburg piping was blistering and had some roots penetrating the line.

On a walk-thru as a buyer, main thing I tell people to look for is moisture invasion since that can be expensive and needs to be fixed sooner rather than later. 

.), roots from trees are penetrating the pipes leading to the street, or you have a collapsed pipe somewhere that needs to be replaced.