@Robert Uceda , Also, if Bill's post caused you to get that worked up, you need to get thicker skin to handle rejection.

so we put about 155k cash into it.40k   rehab  which included  new kitchen Roof.. and finish the basement.. and new front yard.it was a 1920's bungalow so she kept original HW floors and just coated them.. along with the windows were good wiring and plumbing were updated.. so basically new kitchen baths paint roof etc etc.

I agree, a lot of people tend to sugar coat opportunity without giving the full picture. 

.- Closets: sweep, mop or vacuum- Floors: sweep, mop or vacuum PaintingUse drop cloths to protect furniture, floors from paint -Protect and mask necessary finished surfaces including door knobs, hinges, bathtubs, showers, cabinets, electrical outlets, fixtures and windows-Caulk all joints at doors casings and jambs in order to maintain a sealed surface-Caulk all joints around the windows where the window meets the drywall Patch and/or repair of minor wall and ceiling blemishes prior to the application of paint-Apply primer coat-Apply 1st and 2nd coats (Two-tone paint available)-Remove all masking from doors, windows, baseboards , walls, hinges, floors, etc.

I prefer the woods natural look, protected by 2 coats polyurethane.

On the other hand, my Dad says that tenants always give the "wow" factor for the shiniest floors, and they hold up better over time.I will be sanding and applying 2 coats.

These were intended to be wall tiles and are thicker than regular floor tiles.

Heck, a simple (thicker) blanket would solve the issue.  

If you don’t want to get carried away with sanding the clear coat off, grab a can of XIM Fusion Bonder Primer (expensive but good $50 + per Gal). 

Well I learned not to be in a hurry the whole inside of the house today, primer and paint. lighting started getting bad about the time I started painting, I now know the primer was much thicker.